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Which “should” be faster? - by: sunparrot

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I’m paddling my Epic V8 Pro in a short race for fun on Intercoastal waters (so no surf) in a few days, and I have a banged up rudder on it with no way to buy and get a new rudder to me in time for the race.

My damaged rudder is 5” L x 4-7/8” W  - photos attached. I have a new 6” L x 5” W rudder on hand. Which do you think would allow me the greatest speed? Should I stick with the shorter 5” rudder, even though it’s banged up, or go with the smoother but longer 6” rudder?

If the 6” rudder would slow me down, would it slow me down a lot or just a negligible amount?  Female paddler. Interested in your opinions and experience. Thanks!



Action cam recommendations - by: SpaceSputnik

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Having played with a couple of cheap cameras for a good while, I am ready to forgo the pain and unreliability and get something better. Not interested in a lot of features. Actually the less the better. I only need 1080 or 720 resolution  at 60fps filming reliably over that 1-2 hours the battery allows. The cheapies can't even be trusted with that.
Don't need a screen and fewer buttons the better. A recording light visible from the front of the cam or anything else that lets me see if the cam is rolling while mounted all the way at the back of the  boat is a pretty sizeable bonus.

So, what should it be? GoPro session? Hero 7 white? Anything else? 

Wahoo Tickr HR Belt - by: robin.mousley

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I've had plenty of trouble (slow to connect, sometimes giving incorrect readings, not working at all when very wet) with the Garmin HR belt, when used with my Forerunner 910XT.  

Some time ago the Wahoo Tickr HR belt was recommended to me, so I bought one online at takealot.co.za.  I used it a couple of times and it died.  I checked inside and there was dampness and corrosion.  So I returned it and had it replaced (and was delighted by the service from takealot).  

The new one lasted half a dozen paddles, when it too died.  This time I couldn't replace it because takealot had no more stock and they gave me a refund instead.

I went onto the Wahoo Facebook page to tell them that the waterproofing on their product needed to be improved - and in response they sent me a new one free of charge from Europe.  Yippee!

This time, before using it, I opened it up and applied o-ring grease to the o-ring to make absolute sure that it wouldn't leak.

Once more I was well pleased with the performance - it links with the 910XT instantly and reliably.  It also broadcasts HR on bluetooth so it will connect to your phone or other device too.  And it seems less prone to stopping if you take a wave in the chest.  I love it!

But...  Alas, half a dozen uses and...  dead again.  Again it had moisture inside.  I dried it out but it was deader than a doornail.

Wahoo international have just sent me another one, but now I'm reluctant to use it in case I kill it again.  

Questions:
  • Has anyone else used the Wahoo Tickr HR belt, and if so what has your experience been with its robustness?
  • What can I do to waterproof the darned thing?  

I can shuttle 1 person +boat to gorge start tomorrow - by: MCImes

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I have an empty spot on my rack and can shuttle a needy paddler to the start line of The Gorge tomorrow. My boat is on the storage rack so we could meet there around 930 so we can be at the start a little after 10.

Text 952-two one 2-579 zero if you need a ride. First come first serve

Cheers
Marcus

Fenn LS for Sale - Fiji - by: rightlatitude

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I have a two year old Fenn for Sale in very good condition. We are based in Denarau - Fiji.

It is a LS Model. 

Can sell a Fenn paddle also. 

Asking $1600 NZD for Ski

$250 NZD for paddle.

Hip/knee boat contact - by: SpaceSputnik

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A basic question. Should I strive to keep knees close together K1 style or I can splay apart a bit so I get a more boat contact at the sides of hips and knees. Not at the expense of the leg pump and rotation of course.
Normally I keep knees in front of me and pretty close together (a couple of inches I guess). Legs are pretty free. Seems to work nicely in the flat. However I did a fair bit of side chop today and found that keeping legs apart some so I feel carrying handles of my Evo on the side of my knees helped with stability. Didn't have to brace as much and the power was coming down quite well.
With all the instruction I received this year I feel I should already know this but I guess it never came up somehow.
Somebody explain please?

[help] gelcoat thousand little bumps - by: matteo

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What a disaster.
Checked after a few months of storage. The deck (fiberglass) is covered by bubbles, the hull (carbon-kevlar) is not.
What could it be? fiberglass osmosis or a gelcoat problem?
The ski was stored outside, wrapped by a syntetic black sheet and a siver tarp, sheltered from the sun and rain by a roof.
hot and dry climate, rain just in the past days.

[help] gelcoat chicken skin - by: matteo

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What a disaster.
Checked it after a few months of storage. The deck (fiberglass) is covered by bubbles, the hull (carbon-kevlar) is not.
What could it be? fiberglass osmosis or a gelcoat problem?
The ski was stored outside, wrapped in a nylon black sheet and a silver tarp, sheltered from the sun and rain by a roof.
Hot and dry climate, rain just in the past days.

Kai Wa'a Surfski - by: kwolfe

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Can it be true? Crossing over from OC1 (which I have one of his) to surskis?!

I can only imagine that it will be very downwind oriented.

Kai Wa'a Surfski news

McGregor Classic Ski - by: zachhandler

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Has anyone had a chance to try one?

Rate Skis on how easy they are to remount - by: MCImes

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A lot is talked about remounting in various places, but I couldnt find a thread that directly compared how easy or hard a boat is to remount. Obviously some of this is subjective, but in general I think we can agree that boats with a wide, shallow seat are easier to remount than ones with a narrow, deep seat. Also, maximum beam factors heavily into remnountability, but does not tell the whole story, which is why I ask the question.

Maybe give a 0-10 scale of ease of remount with some notes on why its easy or hard. (I figure a 10/10 is like a V5/V7 level boat, so dont tell me a SF, V10, or SEL is 10/10. Yes, those boats are relatively easy to remount once you have some skill, but that doesnt make it 'easy' on an absolute scale - they're 'easy' on a relative scale)

For the 4 boats I'm very familiar with, it goes like this - Easiest to hardest. For reference I side saddle 95% of the time. 

Stellar SR g1 - 8/10 - very easy due to lots of primary stability, wiiiide bucket that is not too steep and only moderately deep. Almost never miss the first remount.

Fenn XT g1 - 6.5/10 - same beam as an SR, and has a shallow-ish, wide-ish bucket, but the somewhat V bottom of the ski leads to lower primary stability which can make balancing while getting the legs over-and-in somewhat more tricky, particularly in messy conditions. Still not too hard but requires some skill. only rarely miss the first remount

Fenn Swordfish S - 4/10 - An 'advanced' boat by beam standards, the bucket is relatively deep and somewhat narrow. The rails on the side of the bucket at the thinnest point are pretty skinny, so they dont feel great if you put a lot of pressure on your body with them. The relatively deep seat means you need to have a relatively refined sequence for remounting without going over the other side while sliding into the bucket in messy conditions. occasionally miss the first remount, but never have struggled repeatedly to get back in. 

Epic V10 g0 (the 43cm version from like 2006) 2.5/10 - Low primary stability. relatively deep bucket. Low primary stability means you need to stay very centered when swinging your legs in from a side saddle or you will go over the other side easily. Also the deep bucket makes it hard to have your feet in the water comfortably while getting your wits back after a capsize before paddling away. 

I'm interested to hear other's thoughts on these boats and others!

Before training, consult your DNA Analysis? - by: robin.mousley

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Athletes like Oscar Chalupsky and Dean Gardiner are famous (notorious?) for not using fluids during the Molokai Challenge...  

And Oscar currently promotes the Keto diet - and on, he claims, he didn't need any fluids during this years Molokai.  He didn't carry any on his surfski (he paddled doubles), but he did say that he had a small amount on his escort boat just in case.

So... I'm just a mid-packer (or slightly better if it's downwind!) paddler and for long races I've always used some form of sports drink using a formula of "take a sip or two every half hour" with an energy gel or two, also every half hour in the last hour or so of a long race.  

I've never felt motivated to try what seems to me to be the radical option of Keto or Banting diets - but I can see that they work for some people some of the time - and I've wondered whether that's just because they do work if you're sufficiently motivated to follow them religiously, or wether they only work for some people.  I mean, let's face it, Oscar is a freak - as is Dean Gardiner...  Maybe they're constructed differently...

Well, look what popped into my inbox, but an ad for one of those DNA testing products...  Only usually they offer to tell you what you'r ethnic background is...  or they're from a genealogy site that offers to find all your long-lost relatives.

But this one's different - this lot purport to be able to tell you how your body is likely to respond to nutrition and exercise...  And it makes sense - it would explain why some people thrive on a zero-fluid or zero-fat diet, while others don't.  

 https://shop.mashable.com/sales/miadna-diet-and-nutrition-kit

Anyone tried it?  What do you think?!

Revo R2 Carbon Surfski R6k - by: Wiid

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Carbon Revo R2 surf ski for sale.
Got about 500km on the boat. Doesn't leak. Comes with 3 interchangeable rudders. Custom made padded boat cover included.
Reason for selling: My 36 inch waist sits too snug in the bucket and hinders my rotation.

Would like to get R6000 for it. Bought new 2 years back.

Nelo 560 vs Fenn Surge - by: BigFish

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Has anyone tried both the Nelo 560 and the Fenn Surge? How did they compare?

What paddle might this be? - by: SpaceSputnik


What is the difference between the Braca IV and the Braca XI Van Dusen '92? - by: DrA5

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I guess nothing more to add from the title.....what are the differences between the two Braca paddles that are most commonly used in surfski paddling: the IV and the XI?

Thanks in advance. 

SCREWS - by: matteo

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How the footrest and lines hare connected to the deck of your surfski?

In my surfski they are just screwed, I dont like it, it's weak.

It would be better something like this, the female brass screw glued to the deck.

Only paddle where you can swim to shore - discuss - by: robin.mousley

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In his interview with SA Surfski.com , South African elite paddler Matt Bouman said that paddlers should never go so far out to sea that they can't swim to shore.

In a comment on the surfski.info Facebook page on a recent story about a rescue in Scotland , surfski coach Boyan Zlatarev said:

It’s good to have a safety gear to fall back onto but the questions that needed to be asked were:

1. Can I swim to safety onshore on my own (including fitness abilities plus cold exposure)?
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If the answer to any of those questions is NO then I simply don’t go and there is no communication device that should change my decision


I have enormous respect for both these paddlers, but both of them live and paddle in places where there is warm water and straight coastlines.

Here in Cape Town we have cold water on one side of the Cape Peninsula (15-20C) and (what we think is) very cold water on the other side (9-15C).  Much of the coastline is rocky and our downwind routes go across indentations in the coastline or bays where we end up 2-4km offshore.  Combine all that with a 30kt wind and big breaking waves and not many paddlers are going to be confident about swimming to shore if they lose their ski.

In fact, if we applied a "no swim, no paddle" rule here, 99% of paddlers shouldn't be doing downwind runs in Cape Town at all.

Which is why I place so much importance on safety equipment that can be used either to self-rescue, self-rescue with help from other paddlers, or to call for help from our coastguard/RNLI equivalent, the NSRI.  I think it's perfectly acceptable to take the risk of paddling out of swimming range of the shore - provided you've mitigated that risk by being fit, competent and using appropriate equipment.

What do other people think?

Swordfish S Review - "A new level of consciousness" - by: MCImes

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I got the SF-S. I bought it without paddling but immediately took it out and immediately I said something that blew my mind – something that opened up a new consciousness in me what was impossible for me to comprehend previously. 

That was “Man, this thing is STABLE!”. I never thought I would find a sub-elite boat stable. I would roll my eyes when people would describe boats like the Elite S, V12, Vega, SEA, etc as ‘stable’. I spent a few months falling out of an elite boat thinking “who the *^&% can handle these!?!?”. I know there is still a large step down in stability when you go from a 45cm to a 43cm elite boat, but I now understand how its possible to call them ‘stable’. After paddling enough, you don’t even think about it. It is something that just happenes. I mean, I intentionally pushed myself into sloppy water and seek out the roughest water I could handle, so my improvement was quite volitional, but the change in perception is so small each paddle that I never had a “Eureka” moment where I was like, “I’ve mastered this boat”. I just knew it was time for the next step and my perception of the SF-S confirms that. 

Ok, so its one thing to think the SF is stable on flat water. I think the SF is 90% as stable on the flats as the XT. It feels nicely planted but has linear, deep, predictable secondary stability. I started paddling on the flat water deep in Newport Beach harbor heading towards the ocean mouth 5km away. After a short stint on flat water I got to the busy area of the harbor with hundreds of small and medium size boats going every which way. In the small but messy chop I still found it quite manageable for a first paddle. I drafted boats out to the ocean and went out 2km before turning around. The ocean was small, less than 50cm swell and light wind, but all the boat traffic plus the break walls meant there were up to 1m waves going in every direction including a couple waves from large island ferries throwing a nasty, steep 1m wave. I had no problems even in the 1m ferry wake. I actually thought the rounder hull of the SF was more predictable than the more V hull of the XT. The transition from primary to secondary is so smooth, and the boat wants to roll less. Also, I think the tight fitting and deeper bucket of the SF-S helps significantly. On the shallow/wide bucket of the XT, I noticed I could slip in the bucket to the low side which would result in an epic brace to save me. None of that in the SF.

It picks up a wave SO nice. The XT would struggle to catch some waves. I could get on faster waves, but would need to max effort sprint to catch it, which left less energy for staying on it, and I would commonly lose the set by missing a hole in front of me or just not having enough power/speed to stay on the set. In the SF-S, it picks up a wave even nicer than the XT. Once on the set, I could actually slingshot to the front of the set. On the XT, I would consistently run into the wave in front of me, stall, swamp the bucket, miss the next wave, repeat. The SF allows me to jump waves in the set until it runs out with pretty good consistency. I stall probably 80% less and the higher sides of the bucket means not much water makes it in when i do stall. After jumping all the waves of a set for the first time, a random sound popped into my mind from many years ago 

This boat is a Level Up. (not quite power up, but in my mind it felt the same :) )

Another big upgrade of the SF is the maneuverability. Its good with the large elliptical stock rudder. I could actually see a hole developing in front of me and quickly change direction to fall into it. On the XT, I’d move towards it but usually by the time I made it to the hole it was no longer a hole, so - stall, swamp, curse, repeat. I only broached a couple times with the stock rudder on the very steep ferry waves, which is pretty darn good considering how steep they were. I will probably pick up a DK 9” high chord rudder to hold me on my desired line, but the stock rudder did ok as-is.

I went out again in my home waters last night in small but clean ocean conditions with a 10kt wind and 1m swell. Again… Stable stable stable. Maneuverable. Surfs an entire set back to front. I love this boat. In my heavy XT, I would sprint for a set and often just barely miss it as it went under me. The acceleration of the (still ‘heavy’) 14kg SF-S is so much better than now I can get to full speed in 3-5 strokes and get on the wave much earlier and easier. For once I actually heard a voice say “stay high on the wave” – I didn’t have to hammer to stay on it. When the lead wave of the set picked me up, on multiple occasions I was able to find holes, link waves, and skip ahead 3-6 waves at a time until the set ran out. This was rarely possible in the XT. 

I almost fell out once when I was turning around, had low speed and was broadside to the waves near a sea wall, but a good brace saved me. Overall I wasn't bracing very much. I had a lot of "Stroke Braces" (using the stroke to stabilize yourself), but I don't really count those as bad because I still get 90% of the power down vs a "Slap Brace" which almost stops you. Another 50-100 hrs of bucket time and I'm sure I'll feel comfortable in the SF-S in some pretty gnarly conditions. 

So those are all the great things I have to say about the boat. The things I'm not crazy about…
1. Im 84kg, 185cm (6’1” 185lb with 34/32 pants). Apparently I have a very bony hip bone, because I am squeezed pretty well by the seat at the outside bottom of my hips. Its not uncomfortable, but its very close. Luckily after 2.5hrs and 15km in the boat, my butt still felt ok, so its not a deal breaker. I still felt good with 1 day rest and another 2hr paddle too, so im not worried about chaffing I guess. Its just not the most comfortable for my butt. no dead leg or cramping either. Nice. 
2. The foot well is very narrow. This is good in that it reduces the volume of water you can take on (the bathtub sized bucket on most Stellar’s was one of my most hated design features of the SRg1) but my feet overlap in the middle with 3mm neoprene shoes on. I have wide feet (I order EEE width US size 12 shoes) but my feet do not fit side by side on the foot plate with thin, flexible, 3mm neoprene shoes. During the warmer months I wont need shoes and it will be fine, but 50% of the year will be shoe-temperature so I’d love 1cm more footplate width. It makes turning quickly a little more difficult as I have to re-arrange which foot is on top. This is kinda annoying, but not a deal breaker.
3. The bow does not shed water very well and when the nose buries itself, a sheet of water comes right to your face. I will certainly be adding a wave deflector. I think this will solve 95% of the issue. Overall not a big deal, but the wave deflector is 100% necessary for steeper conditions IMO. 
4. I miss behind-the-seat bungees. The ones in front do not carry very much stuff effectively and I often carry a small dry bag behind me. Ill order some eyelets and glue them on. A minor annoyance, but easily fixed. 
5. I need a rear attachment point like a handle or eyelet for an emergency rudder bungee. Again, easy fix. 
6. I hate the hex key adjustment of the rudder lines. Anything that requires a tool on the water to fix is not great. A guy gave me a great idea to screw very small cleats into the back of the pedals, then you can just figure 8 tie-off the lines. (though I like stainless steel rudder line much more than spectra/rope. The steel stretches less and has a more responsive feel to me)
7. Wish list -  A molded handle in the bucket would be great. (But NOT the screw-on handles – those are awful IMO. Recessed/molded handles only!). Already going from 18kg to 14kg, the boat is soooo much more manageable off the water, a handle would just be nice for 1 handed maneuvering. I wanted to get the Carbon Vac version, but the guy wouldn't go low enough for me to afford. I guess that will be the next upgrade - same boat, just lighter.

Anyways, I was all smiles ear to ear with the first couple paddles on the SF-S. Even in the small but messy conditions I’ve had so far, I feel the boat is extremely manageable. I was apprehensive about mastering the boat before the Gorge downwind champs in July, but now have no worries at all. If its this easy on my 2nd paddle, number 100 will be epic. Especially with the nice linear, clean wave sets people report at the Gorge. 

So that’s my initial thoughts on the SF. I'm looking forward to taking her out later this week when some 2m swell and 20kt wind kick up.  Ill update in a couple weeks when I have several more paddles under my belt and some big conditions to test my true perception of “stable” 

Summary - I see why a lot of people love the SF-S. It has a lot of really good features and very few issues. 

Damn rudder lines! HELP! - by: nickselleck

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Last weekend I bought my first surf ski. Yay! I bought second hand fiberglass Force Field ski from Sydney as my first boat to get the hang of this sport.

Being cheap and 2nd hand it needed attention to a couple of areas. One of those being the rudder lines which were stainless steel and badly crimped causing friction in the steering. I tracked down some replacement rope similar to Dyneema I'm hoping will be an improvement over the S/S cable. 

So researched a number of topics on this forum and others to make sure I followed "best practice" in swapping the cables over. I successfully changed the LH rudder cable by supergluing the two lines together and then putting some heatshrink over the join. This worked well and I was able to slide the new rope through the guide tube. When it came to the RH side though I had problems due to the guide tube causing friction and as I carefully pulled the S/S cable through it separated from the new rope. Dang it!

- I tried pushing the S/S cable back out so I could have another go but it wouldn't push back through the dodgy guide tube.
- I tried pulling on the guide tube so I could trim a little off the end of the tube to clean up the bad section. I fear this might have dislodged the guide tube at the rear end of the boat but I'm not sure if this guide is one piece?
- I tried using the removed LH cable to "push" the RH cable out the back through the guide hole but that failed. I got it most of the way out and then it seemed to stop pushing the cable and I ran out of cable to push on.
- I have glued my new rope onto the old cable and can push the cable from front to back of boat but it just doesn't come out through the guide tube at back of boat so I am thinking it is misaligned?

Without having any sort of access hole or being able to see inside the ski I need help!

Some questions for the more experienced members here:
 - Do most skis run a guide tube all the way through the hull from to back or are the tubes just short sections going through the hull walls?
- I've seen the method using a vacumn cleaner to "suck" the new rope in through the guide hole. Will this only work if the guide tube runs the length of the hull or might it work in my situation?
- Should I try the vacumn cleaner suck method with something light like fishing line and then attempt to pull my new rope through?
- I've thought about drilling a larger hole around where the cable should come out in the rudder box but I'm not sure whether this could create more problems.

Any other ideas for me to try?!?!?
Any help for a newbie would be much appreciated!


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