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Perfect Paddle Selection - by: photofr

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Perfect Paddle Selection: There isn’t one, but perhaps this will help…

People often ask: what’s a good paddle, and right there: it hurts. Judging from the lack of information shared about paddles, I guess it’s a difficult subject for most people to get into. I am probably going to fail miserably, but I am going to attempt to simplify things about wing paddles, and put it all into prospective.

It probably helps to point out that wing paddles weren’t originally designed for surfski paddlers, but instead were designed specifically for flat water kayak racing. This is important because originally, paddles were rather unforgiving – zero tolerance for any trajectory deviations (you had to nail your stroke in order to get any benefit out of the paddle).

I like to place wing paddles into three groups:
Powerful & unforgiving, Weak & forgiving, and Everything else in between.

There’s nothing simple about paddle choices, however, it’s slightly easier when you think of what is needed for your particular “program” or needs.

FLAT WATER
For flat water training and racing (on a kayak or on a surfski), you’ll probably want a paddle that is somewhat aggressive and powerful. Aggressive refers to somewhat unforgiving, with usually a very strong catch. Powerful refers here to a large blade size, and even to an abnormally long shaft.

This type of “ideal” paddle may not be very forgiving, but you might survive the shock, only because you are paddling on flat water. Keep in mind that more often than not, flat water training is between 200 meters and 10 to 15 km, so a very large and powerful blade isn’t going to harm you as much as if you were paddling 40-50k in Open Ocean.



OPEN OCEAN
To better determine your paddle needs, ask yourself a few questions:
How rough is your preferred Open Ocean?
What are your preferred distances?
How often do you paddle?

There are many other factors that will determine your next paddle purchase, but I feel that the 3 above will make a world of difference for you.

Generally speaking, you will want to add stability to your ski when facing rough water. A shorter shaft will force you to paddle with a faster stroke rate, thus adding stability. You’ll also want to prevent injuries, so a smaller blade size will be advantageous there. Finally, if you don’t paddle often, your paddle stroke may not be the most accurate: you’ll need a rather forgiving paddle in order to remain comfortably upright.

In my opinion, this is why a great number of paddlers have gone with a smaller blade size, and with a shorter paddle length. This is perhaps also the reason for which paddle manufacturers have gone to great lengths to provide us with very forgiving paddles, which are still quite powerful.

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS
BRACING: Some paddles are horrible at bracing – they provide little or no support. Others are rock solid on the brace, so be sure to test your bracing.
CLEAN EXIT: Some paddles feel so heavy when exiting the water, so look for one with a super clean exit.
CONSTRUCTION: The finish of a paddle usually says it all. Look for paddle makers that have been around for a really long time. I once paddled with my hands for 4.7 km on a huge downwind. That was not very fun. You’ll want to be very confident in your paddle, because you just don’t want it to break.
WEIGHT: Anyone can make a strong paddle with plenty of extra material. The key is to make it strong and LIGHT. This can usually only come from a lot of experience in paddle-making.
ADJUSTABLE: Don’t think about the resale value. Think of the max length you’ll ever need, and go down from there.
STIFFER BLADES: The blade acts as an anchor, so make sure you don’t have a noodle of a blade. Since the catch is so important, make sure your blade is as stiff and as light as possible.
SOFTER SHAFTS: Softer shafts will save your shoulders, and proven to prevent injuries. A shoulder injury is not an “overnight” problem: it’s for life. Do yourself a favor, go for a softer shaft.
FORGIVING: Open Ocean paddling isn’t a perfect science, and the effect of water moving all over the place around you is going to affect your “perfect paddling stroke” greatly. For this reason, you’ll probably want to aim at a very forgiving paddle to favor downwind or chaotic conditions.

PERSONAL CONSIDERATIONS
SKI WIDTH: You’ll need at little bit of a longer paddle when using a wider surfski, this is especially in reference to the ski width where your blade actually enters the water.
SEAT HEIGHT: You’ll also need a longer paddle if your surfski seat is highly padded or naturally higher than others.
PADDLING BEHIND: you’ll want a shorter paddle to somewhat prevent paddling too much behind you.

Paddler’s arm length, paddler’s torso height, paddling style, water conditions, paddler’s weight, and ski weight will all affect your paddle choice: mainly blade size, shaft size, and shaft stiffness.

FAVORITE
It’s so much easier for me to tell you which paddle I did not appreciate and why – but that’s for another day. Today, I can tell you this:

Braca has been making paddles for a very long time. One of their most popular model ever built (and most duplicated blade on the market) is the Braca IV (4). It seems that Fenn and Epic even based their paddle on it, amongst others. It’s a paddle that I liked to paddle with, but I truly fell in love with the Braca XI (11).

The Braca XI is the newest Braca paddle produced. It is based on an exclusive license by Van Dusen (Massachusetts, USA) which underwent a great deal of lab and field testing. Aside from being a beautiful paddle with a lot of twist, I find the Braca XI to provide me with a super clean catch, and a very clean exit. It’s one of the most efficient and comfortable paddle I have had. As a bonus, I find the Braca XI to provide me with a solid brace.

There’s no way that the Braca XI could be everyone’s favorite, but I highly recommend everyone in the market for a new paddle to at least give it a try, especially if you are going to paddle in chaotic waters.



NELO 560M Review - by: photofr

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The new NELO SURFSKIS have made their way to Brittany, France. With this comes the brand new NELO testing facility: it’s very small, but easily accessible for about 1/3 of the entire French population. The small testing facility is conveniently located on the water’s edge of a protected sea, with easy access to the ocean less than 1km on a surfski.

Currently in stock for testing: the NELO 520 and the NELO 560M.
The NELO 560L is on its way!

The 520 is super cool, and very versatile (I’ll spend more time on it during the next couple of weeks and try to provide some real life feedback) but this review is about the NELO 560M.

NUMBERS
560 represents its length: 560cm, 5.6 meters, or 18’4 feet.
M Represents a ski designed for Medium to Small paddlers (roughly 77 kilos or less).
(For reference: I still haven’t measured the width, but it’s supposed to be 45cm.)

LOOKS & FEEL
First thing out of the box, you’ll notice a very glossy and shiny ski. Its near-perfect finish will still remind you that this was hand-made, with real humans behind it. Overall, the ski is super clean, so don’t expect too many blemishes because it’s super sharp looking.

The curves are beautiful: essentially, a needle nose ski with a “fat” behind for added stability exactly where you’d need it (behind you).

RIGGING
There’s no denying it: you will be very impressed. I know I was blown away by what I saw. First, there’s the carbon foot plate and pedals (they are very different from anything out there). Adjusting the foot plate length is super easy and very secure once in place. Speaking of adjustments: I have “the world’s shortest legs” and I like to have my knees a little higher than most people. Naturally, the first thing I did was to check if this was going to “work” for me. So, shorter paddlers: finally a ski that will fit you, with plenty of room for the long-legged-counterpart.

Next, you’ll stumble on the foot strap: this one is padded, but rigid. The additional power you’ll get from it may just blow you away. Its adjustment is a little finicky but actually quite simple, with multiple pre-sets.

Took me 15 minutes to unpack the entire ski, rig it, and paddle away. Takes about 20 seconds to change the foot plate length. Too cool.

BUCKET
There’s something missing in the bucket: the hump is nearly all-gone. How does this affect drainage? I don’t know, but I can tell you this: I have swamped my ski trying to draft a boat and it emptied itself in record time. We may very well see copies of the disappearing hump quite soon, because it may not be needed as much as we “thought”.

SEATING AREA
It’s higher than what you are used to if you have used a ski in the last 7 or 8 years, but that’s a good thing. After all, think about it: when we want to seat down at the beach, we try to find a rock, a stump, a step… something to ultimately place our butts higher than our heels. It sounds simple, but try this: seat down on the floor (butt and heels at the same level) and stay there for 2 hours. Now try the same thing, but instead of seating on the floor, try seating on a small step, or even a small phone book. Feels better, doesn’t it?

Well, essentially, the seating area will feel way more natural, right off the bat. More comfort equals more power, so I am all for it and wouldn’t have it any other way.

The bucket is an ergo bucket that isn’t as deep as many other skis. This is one of the first skis where I won’t need any padding for hips, but because it’s ergo, my wife will also be able to paddle it.

Is the bucket the most comfortable bucket ever? I don’t know, and I seriously doubt it. Everyone is made differently, so you’ll have to see for yourselves. For me, it feels natural, and very comfortable (I have narrow hip bones). For my wife, she loves it (and needless to say: she wished she had narrower hip bones). 

DRAINAGE
The NELO drainage is highly efficient: see above as it drains faster than ever. The best part: its ease of operation, where finally you are able to concentrate on your paddling, while using your feet to naturally open and close the latch. It’s very intuitive, and very well placed.

THE CATCH AREA
Being a “needle nose” ski, you’ll find the paddle entry point to be very narrow. It’s pure physics: this will make for a more efficient paddle stroke. There’s one little drawback that I noticed after the first 20k: the outside of the pedals stick out a little… and I have hit it with my paddle a few times, but that’s an easy fix.

For me, there’s nothing worse than a wide catch area – coming from someone with a narrow frame. This feels super nice, comparable to the Spark, but with more comfort and less “boat”.

STABILITY
The seating area of the 560M feels higher than the V10L, and much higher than the Spark. Stability, however, feels way better than the Spark and better than the V10L. I feel a lot of additional stability due to how snug the boat feels (you are part of the ski for a change), and the wider area behind the seat is just added bonus for an Elite ski. Primary stability is okay, but secondary stability is excellent. See, I did it: I spoke about stability without revealing any trade secrets regarding the hull .

SMALLER DETAILS
There are couple of things that also impressed me:
There are three leash plugs: one under the seat designed to be used as a leash attachment point, and two more in front of the footwell. The two points up front can be used to secure gear, or as a towing point if need be. It’s no big deal, but I really like that.

The plastic rudder cover is too simple: no tools required to open it, so a big bonus there. I recommend taping your Allen key in there, with surf wax or similar.

The stiff foot strap makes for a great handle and secures the boat on your shoulder when the wind is high.

SIDEWIND
This is the lowest profile ski I have been on in a long time. The closest thing may have been the Chalup Ski back in 1988. Having said that, smaller paddler (heck, ALL paddlers) will find that paddling this ski in side wind may be easier than with any other skis, mostly because the bow doesn’t get blown away like a butterfly in the wind.

WET OR DRY RIDE?
It’s a wet ride, where you are part of the ocean. The drainage is lighting fast, but you will get wet. Sidewalls are not too tall (as I feel they should be) because truth be told: you are going to get wet any way. Remounting is therefore easier, but it's still a wet ride. The deflector is a huge bonus, and works wonders. Mine came with it, and I believe that’s standard on all NELO Surfskis.

UPWIND
I have been paddling in the same spot for about 2 years and I just blew my personal “best” out of the water on an upwind section I have done 100’s of times. Average speed was high (for me) and I was still getting used to the ski. Upwind speed is good, but the feeling was great; I seriously had fun going up wind up swell.

DOWNWIND
As mentioned above, it’s a bit of a wet ride, but one that I thoroughly enjoyed. Conditions were chaotic, with confused seas, but I was able to use my body (much) more than ever before. It’s another dimension, literally.

Most of this comes from the shorter ski, shorter than it’s been for the past decade, but about the same as back when I had tons of fun in the ocean. Essentially, the ski is super maneuverable, catches runs very easily, and is more responsive than anything I have been on. I am seemingly able to paddle less, where I am finally able to use my body weight to keep that nose in the “hole”. Apparently, the laziness in me is coming out, and that’s cool as heck.

ACCELERATION
Faster – way faster… hands down.

WEIGHT AND STIFFNESS
The skis is about the same weight as the V10 GT, but not as stiff. Don’t get me wrong, it’s solid, and quite stiff with zero soft spots to notice, but not quite the brutal stiffness of prepreg. To be fair, it’s also more “absorbing”, especially when it comes to the imperfections encountered at sea. It’s a more comfortable ride that doesn’t seem to slow performance, but that’s just how I feel having paddled both.

The weight of my skis (carbon sandwich construction) is 9.8 kilos, all rigged, including rudder and rear bungie. Yes, I can carry it under my arm all day.

MADE IN EUROPE
Having a ski made in Europe feels good (since I now live in Europe and all) but there are other advantages. Shipping takes about 7 days to reach European countries, and a custom ski can be ordered with approximately 6-week of a waiting period (not 4 months like numerous other companies outsourcing to China).

I don’t know, call me stupid, but this is 2016: I would proudly (and will) place a flag from Portugal on my ski, but I kind of find it difficult to put a Chinese flag on one of my Stand Up Paddle boards made in China. Call me sentimental, but I will also have an Hawaiian flag on my ski 

Plus, it’s not just made in Europe, or just made in Portugal; it’s made from one of the biggest composite provider in the World, and trusted by more Olympians than any other brands out there. So yeah: I am proud that it’s made near home.

PRICES
Prices are always a factor, granted, but this should put a smile on people’s faces. A light surfski is now affordable!

Two types of constructions are available.
TYPE 4 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Kevlar/Epoxy
Approx. 11 kilos
Approx. 2450 euros

TYPE 7 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Epoxy
Approx. 9.5 kilos
Approx. 3850 euros

For reference, I just bought a Stand Up Paddle board, Carbon/Epoxy construction, 14 feet in length, without a rudder, for 3800 euros, and it still weighs 11.5 kilos, and it wasn’t made in Europe.

PERKS OF A SHORTER SKI
What can you too expect from a shorter ski?

For starter, it’s easier to handle on land, where you are most likely to damage your boat. Inevitably, your ski may last longer from less accidental damage on land.

It’s shorter, so there’s less flex on the water, and on the roof of your car; that’s just pure physics.

More reactive to body shifts, and more maneuverable downwind should yield more fun, better average speed, and less paddling fatigue. Keeping the bow into the “hole” will be faster from a more responsive ski, and will allow you to “lock in that wave” longer than ever. Look it up: skis in the 18-19 foot range have always been very fast, see Molokai Channel crossing history.

If you can fit your car in a garage, you should no longer have any problem storing your ski right at home.

FASTER ACCELERATIONS
Shorter waves heaven: the 560M does really well in open ocean swells, but for the majority of people on surfskis, downwind in smaller conditions or in a bay will have you smiling again, and downwind paddling in the Mediterranean Sea will have you “flying”.

CHOICE OF COLORS
You can have a white ski… if that’s what you still want, but you can also choose from a huge variety of colors available online.

CUSTOM SKIS
Custom skis come with your custom colors. Turnaround times take about 6 weeks.

SHIPPING
There are 2 ways to get your new skis to you.
1. You can place your order with one of the reps in France, and pick it up from them (no extra charge).
2. You can place your order with one of the reps, and have it delivered to your house (for about 100 euros more).


IN A NUTSHELL
The new 560M is a shorter surfski that’s surprisingly more responsive than other skis people are used to. It excels for shorter and super light paddlers (though I am told the standard 560 is well-geared towards bigger paddlers like Oscar). When it comes to flat water paddling, the 560M doesn’t disappoint.

When you first paddle the ski, you are likely to notice:
Its needle-nose look, and tight paddle catch area.
Wide area located seemingly behind you.
Higher seating position; comfortable.
Very secure foot strap system.
Good stability for an Elite ski.
Amazing downwind control.
You will be “one” with the water, literally.
My favorite: the ability to once again affect your ski in the surf, even if you weight “nothing”.










QUESTIONS, TESTING OR ORDERING IN FRANCE
Contact: Ludovic BACQUET
NELO Testing Center – FRANCE (West Coast)
E: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
I: www.nelokayaks.com
T: 06.24.74.53.70
International Calls: 011 [33] 624-745-370

Your heart rate in a surfski race - by: Impala

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Dear all,

I am struggling quite a bit with managing power input and heart rate during surfski races. I am 50, have quite a record of competitive endurance sport (running, kayak marathon) and, by this, thought to have a good feeling for how to determine a level of effort during endurance competitions that I can keep up until the finish.

But since I have started to participate in downwind races two years ago, I am at a loss how to approach this. Typically, as soon as I catch my first wave, my heart rate goes up to 175 or above (my max HR is a bit over 190), and just tends to stay there. Or it goes further up to 185 when I really try to stay on the wave. This is contrary to my expectation that surfing should bring your pulse down, and trying to hop to the next wave is the stuff that costs. So far, my only way to relax my heart rate is to let the waves pass me, which is highly frustrating, as then your speed is no higher as when seakayaking, and you are much less in control of what's happening. But OTOH, I can't imagine that I can sustain a heart rate of 175 or above for 1.5 or two hours. Or is that just how it is in downwind races?

I am aware that I have not sufficient exposure to waves, as I rarely have the opportunity to practice on open water. This surely creates technical issues, but I am also interested about whether this high heart rate throughout the downwind race is something common you have to live with (and adapt to), or whether you found a way to relax at least bit during races.

Carbonology Vault - by: Hulk

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Hi fellow paddlers,

I'm paddling the always reliable Fenn Swordfish in a Glass Vacuum layup at the moment for the last 3.5 yrs. I'm 1m88 and 76kgs.
I'd like to upgrade to a different boat or to the new swordfish S.

In 2wks I'm going to trial the new Carbonology Vault and was wondering if there is anyone at this forum that could give me any feedback about his experience with the Vault and/or upgrading from the Swordfish.

Cheers
Pete

Shark Takes Bite Out Of Paddler's Surfski - by: rubberDuck

Advanced Surf Ski for a beginner - by: LakeMan

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First let me say thank you to all of you on this forum for your invaluable information on skis. Trying to learn about them has been a fun adventure and you've all made it more enjoyable.

I've been sea kayaking for 3 decades so I'm no beginner to the sport. However I have only been on one ski and that was a demo day on the Atlantic. I fell in love with them right there and this was at least twenty years ago. The boats have come a long way since then. I am in the hunt for my first one now.

My question and comment is this... why the push for beginners to get "beginner" skis? Is it to sell more boats? Is it because people will give up if it's too challenging? If a man wants a corvette we don't say "buy a Miata first until you get used to sports cars" or if someone wants to take up tennis we don't say "go to Walmart and get a $30 racket until you learn the sport and then get a Wilson Hammer". Yet we do it with kayaks. I say buy the best you can afford and learn to use it. Are the higher-end skis tippy? Heck yes. But so was learning to ride a bicycle when I was five. We learn, we adjust. What happened to having some backbone?

These are my thoughts. I'm looking for something thin and fast. No beginner crafts for me. There are a lot more but I don't want to bore you any further.

New V12 - by: Dnob

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Anybody been out in the new V12 and can share thoughts and/ or pictures? seen some pics on the boat but nothing on the hull.
Overall seems like an really interesting boat but would be great to hear someones feedback on it

Venturi-ectomy – Bailer-plasty - by: Simon Haywood

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In response to several requests, this is how I’ve fitted Andersen Super Mini (‘Special’) bailer to a Stellar SEI (excel)...There are some short cuts I've found along the way (*SC = short cuts).
Like any operation there are several ways of performing it - this is just one...

Part 1.

Operation: ‘Venturi-ectomy – Bailer-plasty’ Nov 13’

NB: This will probably affect my warranty on my ski – but I’d rather have better drainage.

Disclosure: I’m a ‘C’ grade paddler (and not a good one at that!), I have no formal qualifications in boat building – But, I do have close access to one for advice & help...and nearly 40 years experience mucking around with boats.




First of all – Make a mould – This will pay dividends in time/finish. The mould is just two blocks of timber which is glued & screwed together then covered in flowcoat/gelcoat. When finished - Use wax & release agent...Apply the finish gelcoat to the mould – Then apply three layers of 200grm Carbon Fibre & a little bit of chop strand mat – I use West 105 epoxy resin.


Remove the bottom rail (this is screwed and glued in - *SC: do not remove - use a dremel tool to cut & shape) Remove hood & bullet off the bottom – I used a chisel – (*SC: grind it off)

Using the mould/tray you made as your template mark out where it sits and cut out – inside & out.





Fit the bailer to newly created tray – countersunk bolts are fitted from the underside-out – these need to be notched and glassed in (so they do not spin).

You must bond the inside(deck) to hull be sure to fill all the exposed nomex cells – this needs to air/water tight – I use mix of resin, micro balloons/q cells with glass strands mixed in. Use the same process to bond/glass the tray too.




Fill fair and gelcoat the interior / Spray gelcoat to the exterior

Thermoplastic Surfskis, Racing Skis - by: Uffilation

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Made the list to seek for a downriver (stone hitting) alternative for the flatter days(+family/guests "abuse ski"), maybe someone has a use for the list for his/her own quest. I guess there are more thermoplastic surfskis and SOT-type-Ski-Hybrids on the market, so you are invited to add the list or correct mistakes. tia

Actual prices s.b. outdated or differ or be lower or ...:

Spirit PRS SKI, Spirit PRS Elite SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 567cm
Width: 50cm
Moulded weight: 20.5kg
Moulded weight, Elite: 18.3kg
Weights fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white+many others as per google
Price: from AU$1595, 1190€

Spirit Racing SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 496m
Width: 51cm
Moulded weight: 19.5kg
Weight fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white
Price: from AU $1295

Spirit Fury Racing Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Moulded Weight: 19kg
Moulded Weight: Elite 17.6kg
Length: 570m
Width: 47cm
Price: from AU$ 1895.00

FINN Molokai
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 590m
Width: 47,5cm
Moulded Weight: 18kg
Price: AU$ $2150 (website)

FINN Endorfinn
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Width: 54cm
Standard Weight 18kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Lightweight 15kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Standard AU$1399 (website)
Lightweight AU$1649 (website)

Cobra Surf Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: New Zealand
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Weight: 21 kg?
Price: ?

VAJDA Raptor Ski
Manufacturing process: thermoforming
Made in: Slovakia
Material: double layered ABS-type with outer acrylic layer
Length: 535cm
Width: 53cm
Weight fully outfitted: 19.5kg
Colours: pearl white, metallic: orange, red, blue
Price: 1250-1350+- €

Epic V7
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: South Africa ? (test paddled one with Made in USA sticker though, anyone has details?)
Material: PE, solid skin with foam layer
Length 520m
Width: 54cm
Moulded weight: <19kg
Weight fully outfitted: 22.7kg (from EPIC website)
Colours: white
Price: $1495, Au$ 1995, 1295€

THINK Nitro/Pyranha Octane
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
To be made in: England?
Material: PE
Length 535cm
Width: 53cm
Color: orange, white

Liker Surfski PE
Maker: Liker Kayak, China
Length: 505cm
Width:55cm
Depth:35cm
Weight:21kgs

NELO 510, PE ... ????
pops up in the 2016 pricelist for surfskis , so?

Epic V14 Ultra almost new - by: Van Schaik

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Epic V14 ultra for sale only paddled 5 times.
Cape Town (0824917618)

Why are most surf skis white? - by: LakeMan

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I'm not sure there's a simple answer but maybe there is. My first guess would be that if lost at sea you'd be easier to find however in high-seas with whitecaps that may not be true. Maybe white is easier to manufacture. Maybe it just makes for a better looking boat. Am I missing something? Thanks

FENN Mako6 v Elite SL - by: DS

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am an intermediate to average paddler looking to upgrade from Mako6 to EliteSL. What are the differences in boat handling, stability, performance etc.
Are they more unstable in rough conditions?

Venturi-ectomy – Bailer-plasty - by: Simon Haywood

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In response to several requests, this is how I’ve fitted Andersen Super Mini (‘Special’) bailer to a Stellar SEI (excel)...There are some short cuts I've found along the way (*SC = short cuts).
Like any operation there are several ways of performing it - this is just one...

Part 1.

Operation: ‘Venturi-ectomy – Bailer-plasty’ Nov 13’

NB: This will probably affect my warranty on my ski – but I’d rather have better drainage.

Disclosure: I’m a ‘C’ grade paddler (and not a good one at that!), I have no formal qualifications in boat building – But, I do have close access to one for advice & help...and nearly 40 years experience mucking around with boats.




First of all – Make a mould – This will pay dividends in time/finish. The mould is just two blocks of timber which is glued & screwed together then covered in flowcoat/gelcoat. When finished - Use wax & release agent...Apply the finish gelcoat to the mould – Then apply three layers of 200grm Carbon Fibre & a little bit of chop strand mat – I use West 105 epoxy resin.


Remove the bottom rail (this is screwed and glued in - *SC: do not remove - use a dremel tool to cut & shape) Remove hood & bullet off the bottom – I used a chisel – (*SC: grind it off)

Using the mould/tray you made as your template mark out where it sits and cut out – inside & out.





Fit the bailer to newly created tray – countersunk bolts are fitted from the underside-out – these need to be notched and glassed in (so they do not spin).

You must bond the inside(deck) to hull be sure to fill all the exposed nomex cells – this needs to air/water tight – I use mix of resin, micro balloons/q cells with glass strands mixed in. Use the same process to bond/glass the tray too.




Fill fair and gelcoat the interior / Spray gelcoat to the exterior

Resistance Training - by: robin.mousley

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I just posted an article written by Roei Yellin on Resistance Training... Roei was on the Israeli Olympics team in 2000 and 2004; he's now an avid surfski paddler based in Israel and works for Motionize.

Roei Yellin on Resistance Training

The optimal GPS for surf ski - by: SurfskiEstonia

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Hi, guys!

I've been using a Garmin Vivoactive (1st gen) for 2 years, but don't have it anymore.

Would like to take a look at products outside the Garmin/Suunto/Polar GPS watches. When I think about the activities where I really use GPS capabilities, those are surf ski paddling (85%) and bicycling (15%). So I don't really need all those smart watch functions.

Do You have any suggestions/thoughts about an appropriate GPS watch/gadget to be mounted on a surf ski.

The keywords are:

1. Waterproof
2. Reasonable accuracy (want to see the speed while accelerating down the wave)
3. Sufficient screen visibility in the sun and dark
4. Comfortable carry and mounting on the ski

All suggestions are very welcome :) Thanks!!

What is the best ski finish? - by: LakeMan

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In other words which is better? Polyurethane or gelcoat? I've read some motor boat sights and it seems to be a debate on which is better. I'm not a chemist and have never owned a boat coated in polyurethane so I know nothing except what I've read. Is polyurethane a good, strong and dependable ski finish?

Kayak Pro - by: Brad carr

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Want to buy Kayak Pro, are there any second hand ones for sale

KAYAKPRO SPEEDSTROKE ERGOMETER for sale - by: Tom

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Two years old. Good condition. $3600 new.

For sale for $2000 or best offer. Please submit your best offer to me by 10th February 2017.

Are you a kayaker or a ski paddler? Do you want to get better?

You need a KayakPro SpeedStroke Ergometer, the preferred ergometer of the Australian Institute of Sport. KayakPro, the official suppliers of ergometers to the 2004 Athens Games, 2006 Asian Games, 2008 Beijing Olympic Games, 2010 Asian Games, and 2012 London Olympic Games.

SpeedStroke Gym is KayakPro’s heavy-use Kayak Ergometer, designed for high input and multi-user use in Gyms, clubs and by professionals. It’s extremely robust steel construction and easy operating mechanisms allow easy use and adjustment. The SpeedStroke Gym Kayak ergometer replicates kayaking precisely. It is fully performance calibrated for kayaks and gives the same “on-the-water” feel as real kayaking .

This is the crème de la crème kayak ergometer.




Erik Borgnes says:

"1. The Speedstroke GYM is exceptionally robust. I think that this GYM will outlast me. The only question will be which one of my children will inherit it.

2. The Gym provides excellent simulation of the kayak stroke technique. You will develop and hone proper technique on this ergometer.

3. The rope pulley system is exceptionally smooth. The catch is immediate and solid, just like a kayak or surfski on the water.

4 Computer – Having so much data on a compact display is great. I also like that because of the ability to calibrate the computer monitor, I can take technique and balance and weather out of the equation and accurately measure how much power I can produce today, mid season, next year, and next decade.

5 Software – The possibility of online training and racing is a Godsend to those of us who are not able to train routinely with a club during daylight hours. Also, because there are three software products already available for the GYM, because KayakPro has developed relationships with the British Canoe Union, the French Canoe Kayak Association, The Canadian Canoe Association, the Hungarian Canoe Federation, and will supply the ergometers for the USA indoor paddling championships, they have momentum and international recognition. The Speedstroke GYM is also used by many of the world’s best ICF paddlers, so some day it might be possible for me to race Tim Brabants or Eirik Veraas Larsen online for a virtual beer. . . and make them pay up in Dubai . . .

...Over the past decade, I have owned and/or tried four other kayak ergometers, and the Speedstroke GYM is hands-down the best one..."

Camera setup........... show us how it's done - by: SkiTutukaka

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Hi there, as the title implies I'm after help sorting a camera mount.

Using a garmin vibe and know there's angles/mast mount designs and a plethora of DIY solutions out there. Please post pics of your setup and if you've video online post a link showcasing the resultant footage.


Many thanks

Video thread - by: Hiro

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Wanted to start a thread where we would post our paddling videos. No stroke analisys or technical stuff. Just paddling for the fun of it.
Here's mine.
real fun starts at 3:45

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