My watch is frozen on transferring data and won't change. Anyone know how to unfreeze it .
Thanks
Hank
Thanks
Hank
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Garmin 310 XT - by: HankL
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Modifications - Pull Bar and Handles - by: Hugh
Hi all. I have just acquired a surfski, and want to retrofit handles at the ends (for safety, towing, etc) and a rigid pull-bar on the footbrace.
Any tips?
I presume that handles have to allow for the fragility of the underlying deck (It's a Stellar Excel layup, a few years old). Does that mean that glued is better than screwed? Is the very thin narrow part of the bow filled, so that I could just drill through it and pass a cord through?
Kirton and Nelo make pull-bars that attach in very different ways. Both look like they would work with some bodging, but I wondered whether anyone who has tried this would be willing to share the benefits of their experience.
Thanks,
Hugh
Any tips?
I presume that handles have to allow for the fragility of the underlying deck (It's a Stellar Excel layup, a few years old). Does that mean that glued is better than screwed? Is the very thin narrow part of the bow filled, so that I could just drill through it and pass a cord through?
Kirton and Nelo make pull-bars that attach in very different ways. Both look like they would work with some bodging, but I wondered whether anyone who has tried this would be willing to share the benefits of their experience.
Thanks,
Hugh
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Paddling Question; More Power or Faster Cadence? - by: dannyboy
In general terms if one wants to cover a given distance in a shorter period of time do you:
a. Use more powerful stroke
or
b. Use a faster cadence?
I tried both this weekend and it seemed that the faster cadence left me feeling stronger yet i felt like i was faster. It was not a given distance and i did not have a stop watch. just seat of pants feeling.
Is there a best technique or is it dependent on distance of the course traveled.
Example , sprint kayakers have a wicked fast cadence . Similar technique for say 5,000 meters or slower and more powerful stroke for longer distances?
a. Use more powerful stroke
or
b. Use a faster cadence?
I tried both this weekend and it seemed that the faster cadence left me feeling stronger yet i felt like i was faster. It was not a given distance and i did not have a stop watch. just seat of pants feeling.
Is there a best technique or is it dependent on distance of the course traveled.
Example , sprint kayakers have a wicked fast cadence . Similar technique for say 5,000 meters or slower and more powerful stroke for longer distances?
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Erg power versus surfski speed - by: ShaneS
One for the scientifically inclined on the forum...
I've started dabbling around on a K1 Trainer erg, working on increasing power output for a given heart rate by tweaking technique, effect of cadence on power, etc. So far the Erg effort (heart rate) and distance/speed line up pretty well with my Garmin records for flat water paddling my intermediate skis (Stellar SR and Swordfish S).
As an example; ~150BPM sits me at about 120W of output and the Erg clocks up ~5,250m in 30min, or 10.5km/h. My average heart rate on a 10km/h 10km paddle comes in slightly higher but there are other factors at play, but I'm surprised its this close.
My assumption therefore is that I should see a steady increase in my average on-water paddling speed as I improve my Erg power output for a given input effort, provided I can transfer the Erg technique improvements into real world paddling stroke.
So .... wondering if anybody has come across scientific papers or has real world experience/knowledge in this area.
I imagine more likely to be K1 based than surfski.
More a subject of personal interest rather than an attempt at thesis level research - but any info to collaborate my little solo experiment is appreciated.
![:side:]( ":side:")
I've started dabbling around on a K1 Trainer erg, working on increasing power output for a given heart rate by tweaking technique, effect of cadence on power, etc. So far the Erg effort (heart rate) and distance/speed line up pretty well with my Garmin records for flat water paddling my intermediate skis (Stellar SR and Swordfish S).
As an example; ~150BPM sits me at about 120W of output and the Erg clocks up ~5,250m in 30min, or 10.5km/h. My average heart rate on a 10km/h 10km paddle comes in slightly higher but there are other factors at play, but I'm surprised its this close.
My assumption therefore is that I should see a steady increase in my average on-water paddling speed as I improve my Erg power output for a given input effort, provided I can transfer the Erg technique improvements into real world paddling stroke.
So .... wondering if anybody has come across scientific papers or has real world experience/knowledge in this area.
I imagine more likely to be K1 based than surfski.
More a subject of personal interest rather than an attempt at thesis level research - but any info to collaborate my little solo experiment is appreciated.
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(SOLD) Epic V10 GT - 9.2 kilos !!! - by: photofr
SOLD SOLD SOLD
FOR SALE: 3100 EUROS (updated price)
(retail: 4700 euros + shipping + the months of waiting)
Epic V10 GT (100% Pre-Preg Carbon construction)
The only one in France, and one of a kind graphics.
For sale in France.
2015 model (black and white color scheme).
SPECS:
6.45m x 45cm
9.2 kilos
Nomex Honeycomb Core, Prepreg Carbon Fiber, High Temperature Cure.
Amazingly stiff - you will most likely be blown away.
CONDITION:
Used, but well cared for.
Surf Fin (Titanium shaft, carbon rudder) in excellent condition
Hull: impeccable.
Deck rear: Impeccable.
Deck front: minor superficial blemishes on bow, and one sticker blemishes on clear coat.
Zero leaks, SOUND BOAT
IDEAL PADDLER:
Taller than me: 5 feet 7 inches (167cm) or taller...
Heavier than me: I am 129 pounds (about 57 kilos) - I recommend it for paddler over 65 kilos.
NOTE:
Unless you are going to be paddling in totally flat water, you'll want to be an advanced paddler with a fair amount of experience on an elite Surfski.
This boat excels in:
Accelerations (catch bumps with ease, because it weighs nothing)
Sprints - run away on your sprints like never before
Downwind - this ski will handle some of the craziest downwind I have seen in a long time
All Around - this ski is far more stable than the original V10.
Primary Stability is well above the norm.
![]()
For info: I have tried everything, and I am still too short, but I have paddled this ski in "remarkable" ocean conditions this winter, with a smile on my face from the start to the finish - making for some really super fun downwind runs.
FOR SALE: 3100 EUROS (updated price)
(retail: 4700 euros + shipping + the months of waiting)
Epic V10 GT (100% Pre-Preg Carbon construction)
The only one in France, and one of a kind graphics.
For sale in France.
2015 model (black and white color scheme).
SPECS:
6.45m x 45cm
9.2 kilos
Nomex Honeycomb Core, Prepreg Carbon Fiber, High Temperature Cure.
Amazingly stiff - you will most likely be blown away.
CONDITION:
Used, but well cared for.
Surf Fin (Titanium shaft, carbon rudder) in excellent condition
Hull: impeccable.
Deck rear: Impeccable.
Deck front: minor superficial blemishes on bow, and one sticker blemishes on clear coat.
Zero leaks, SOUND BOAT
IDEAL PADDLER:
Taller than me: 5 feet 7 inches (167cm) or taller...
Heavier than me: I am 129 pounds (about 57 kilos) - I recommend it for paddler over 65 kilos.
NOTE:
Unless you are going to be paddling in totally flat water, you'll want to be an advanced paddler with a fair amount of experience on an elite Surfski.
This boat excels in:
Accelerations (catch bumps with ease, because it weighs nothing)
Sprints - run away on your sprints like never before
Downwind - this ski will handle some of the craziest downwind I have seen in a long time
All Around - this ski is far more stable than the original V10.
Primary Stability is well above the norm.
For info: I have tried everything, and I am still too short, but I have paddled this ski in "remarkable" ocean conditions this winter, with a smile on my face from the start to the finish - making for some really super fun downwind runs.
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Is there something below beginner? - by: Ultra Newbie
Dear Collective wisdom, I am looking for a surf ski but due to location, at the bottom of Lake Huron there is not a lot of stores to go and try boats. So I'm hoping to get some advice to try and see if I am reaching to far to early
When posts say the V7 or Mako XT are beginner boats how do they figure in terms of getting going as compared to a wider SOT kayak? I am frustrated with the slow speed and almost infinite stability but is the jump to a surf ski possible for a 44 year, 230 lbs guy with 18.5" at the hips, (somewhat precludes a higher performance boat)?
Unless materials are super thing a 19" beam seems like a dream at the moment. I do not big ocean size waves but constant lake roll and chop, so a ski will get me more time on the water when the wind blows from the north and we get lake surf.
Any advice on stores local ish to Port Huron/ Sarnia would also be appreciated.
When posts say the V7 or Mako XT are beginner boats how do they figure in terms of getting going as compared to a wider SOT kayak? I am frustrated with the slow speed and almost infinite stability but is the jump to a surf ski possible for a 44 year, 230 lbs guy with 18.5" at the hips, (somewhat precludes a higher performance boat)?
Unless materials are super thing a 19" beam seems like a dream at the moment. I do not big ocean size waves but constant lake roll and chop, so a ski will get me more time on the water when the wind blows from the north and we get lake surf.
Any advice on stores local ish to Port Huron/ Sarnia would also be appreciated.
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Thermoplastic Surfskis, Racing Skis - by: Uffilation
Made the list to seek for a downriver (stone hitting) alternative for the flatter days(+family/guests "abuse ski"), maybe someone has a use for the list for his/her own quest. I guess there are more thermoplastic surfskis and SOT-type-Ski-Hybrids on the market, so you are invited to add the list or correct mistakes. tia
Actual prices s.b. outdated or differ or be lower or ...:
Spirit PRS SKI, Spirit PRS Elite SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 567cm
Width: 50cm
Moulded weight: 20.5kg
Moulded weight, Elite: 18.3kg
Weights fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white+many others as per google
Price: from AU$1595, 1190€
Spirit Racing SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 496m
Width: 51cm
Moulded weight: 19.5kg
Weight fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white
Price: from AU $1295
Spirit Fury Racing Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Moulded Weight: 19kg
Moulded Weight: Elite 17.6kg
Length: 570m
Width: 47cm
Price: from AU$ 1895.00
FINN Molokai
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 590m
Width: 47,5cm
Moulded Weight: 18kg
Price: AU$ $2150 (website)
FINN Endorfinn
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Width: 54cm
Standard Weight 18kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Lightweight 15kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Standard AU$1399 (website)
Lightweight AU$1649 (website)
Cobra Surf Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: New Zealand
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Weight: 21 kg?
Price: ?
VAJDA Raptor Ski
Manufacturing process: thermoforming
Made in: Slovakia
Material: double layered ABS-type with outer acrylic layer
Length: 535cm
Width: 53cm
Weight fully outfitted: 19.5kg
Colours: pearl white, metallic: orange, red, blue
Price: 1250-1350+- €
Epic V7
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: South Africa ? (test paddled one with Made in USA sticker though, anyone has details?)
Material: PE, solid skin with foam layer
Length 520m
Width: 54cm
Moulded weight: <19kg
Weight fully outfitted: 22.7kg (from EPIC website)
Colours: white
Price: $1495, Au$ 1995, 1295€
THINK Nitro/Pyranha Octane
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
To be made in: England?
Material: PE
Length 535cm
Width: 53cm
Color: orange stripes, white?
NELO 510, PE ... ????
pops up in the 2016 pricelist for surfskis , so?
Actual prices s.b. outdated or differ or be lower or ...:
Spirit PRS SKI, Spirit PRS Elite SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 567cm
Width: 50cm
Moulded weight: 20.5kg
Moulded weight, Elite: 18.3kg
Weights fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white+many others as per google
Price: from AU$1595, 1190€
Spirit Racing SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 496m
Width: 51cm
Moulded weight: 19.5kg
Weight fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white
Price: from AU $1295
Spirit Fury Racing Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Moulded Weight: 19kg
Moulded Weight: Elite 17.6kg
Length: 570m
Width: 47cm
Price: from AU$ 1895.00
FINN Molokai
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 590m
Width: 47,5cm
Moulded Weight: 18kg
Price: AU$ $2150 (website)
FINN Endorfinn
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Width: 54cm
Standard Weight 18kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Lightweight 15kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Standard AU$1399 (website)
Lightweight AU$1649 (website)
Cobra Surf Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: New Zealand
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Weight: 21 kg?
Price: ?
VAJDA Raptor Ski
Manufacturing process: thermoforming
Made in: Slovakia
Material: double layered ABS-type with outer acrylic layer
Length: 535cm
Width: 53cm
Weight fully outfitted: 19.5kg
Colours: pearl white, metallic: orange, red, blue
Price: 1250-1350+- €
Epic V7
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: South Africa ? (test paddled one with Made in USA sticker though, anyone has details?)
Material: PE, solid skin with foam layer
Length 520m
Width: 54cm
Moulded weight: <19kg
Weight fully outfitted: 22.7kg (from EPIC website)
Colours: white
Price: $1495, Au$ 1995, 1295€
THINK Nitro/Pyranha Octane
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
To be made in: England?
Material: PE
Length 535cm
Width: 53cm
Color: orange stripes, white?
NELO 510, PE ... ????
pops up in the 2016 pricelist for surfskis , so?
↧
Elio Mazu Fitness vs Epic V10 Sport - by: JamesM
Hi Everyone,
Was wondering if anyone has paddle the Elio Mazu Fitness and how they found it?
Does it compare to the New V10 or V10 sport?
Would be great to hear any thoughts
Was wondering if anyone has paddle the Elio Mazu Fitness and how they found it?
Does it compare to the New V10 or V10 sport?
Would be great to hear any thoughts
↧
Video thread - by: Hiro
Wanted to start a thread where we would post our paddling videos. No stroke analisys or technical stuff. Just paddling for the fun of it.
Here's mine.
real fun starts at 3:45
Here's mine.
real fun starts at 3:45
↧
↧
Surfski Philippines - by: Joman
Hi!
I recently sold my surfski back home before moving to the Philippines because of work. Now staying in Manila, not a kayakfriendly place to live...But will after a few months move to an island where we literally can carry the ski from our garden and down to the beach![:laugh:]( ":laugh:")
So I am already planning to provide for the most important thing to buy for our new life; two surfskis or one ski and one kayak.
Do any of you know if there are any possibilities for buying decent boats in the country?? So far the www have not given me any answers, exept from big, heavy "touristy" sit on top kayaks in plastic.
Alternatively, will the best solution be to order from Australia?
Anyone having experience ordering and sending a fragile surfski overseas to a remote area - any advices?
Thanks in advance for helping out!
JT
I recently sold my surfski back home before moving to the Philippines because of work. Now staying in Manila, not a kayakfriendly place to live...But will after a few months move to an island where we literally can carry the ski from our garden and down to the beach
So I am already planning to provide for the most important thing to buy for our new life; two surfskis or one ski and one kayak.
Do any of you know if there are any possibilities for buying decent boats in the country?? So far the www have not given me any answers, exept from big, heavy "touristy" sit on top kayaks in plastic.
Alternatively, will the best solution be to order from Australia?
Anyone having experience ordering and sending a fragile surfski overseas to a remote area - any advices?
Thanks in advance for helping out!
JT
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Surfski vs. SUP paddling - by: Laz
Makes someone periodic fitness cross training Ocean Surfski vs. SUP paddling?
Whats is the best of both worlds in your opinion and how they complete each other ?
Whats is the best of both worlds in your opinion and how they complete each other ?
↧
manus tenaci - plasty (adding hand grips) - by: Simon Haywood
manus tenaci - plasty
In response to a request (SkiTutukaka – for JP),
This is how I’ve fitted hand grips to three of my skis...A Huki S1R and 2 x SR (series2)
Maybe it might help or inspire someone else…
NB: This will probably affect my warranty on my ski – but I’d rather have better & easier handling of my ski.
Disclosure: I’m a ‘C’ grade paddler (and not a good one at that!), I have no formal qualifications in boat building – But, I do have close access to one for advice & help...and nearly 40 years experience mucking around with boats.
Like any operation there are several ways of performing it - this is just one...
Start with a piece of timber – I used 140mm x 30mm x 90mm
Shape with a slight taper so it will release.
Round edges (uniform Radius)
![]()
Coat timber with flow coat (also known as gelcoat with styrene)
Once dried - sand and polish and then coat with release wax
I use a gelcoat then tissue chop strand 2-3 x layers 2oz carbon matt and a layer of ½ oz chop strand for grip (exterior) – I use west system 105 epoxy.
I make two of these per ski
![]()
Find the balance point of the ski – mark out from your hand grip the shape
![]()
Fit and adjust hand grip to suit hole – I use a piece of divinycell to space out (adjust depth). Mix up some glue and set hand piece into position – use something to keep open the hand grip’s shape.
Using a dremel tool (very small grinder) reduce edges around the carbon pocket to form a tapered channel. I use several strands of carbon weave and spread it around and around the hand grip.
![]()
Once dried cut excess material and round off the edges of the hand grip and round off the edges.
![]()
Fair, Prime & Paint (2 pack) colour matched to ski (hint – it’s better to paint the inside of the hand grip prior to fitting to the ski – too hard to get the spray gun in! Yes, I learnt the hard way)
![]()
Finished product
Need better drainage on your ski: www.surfski.info/forum/15-tips/18192-ven...y-bailer-plasty.html
In response to a request (SkiTutukaka – for JP),
This is how I’ve fitted hand grips to three of my skis...A Huki S1R and 2 x SR (series2)
Maybe it might help or inspire someone else…
NB: This will probably affect my warranty on my ski – but I’d rather have better & easier handling of my ski.
Disclosure: I’m a ‘C’ grade paddler (and not a good one at that!), I have no formal qualifications in boat building – But, I do have close access to one for advice & help...and nearly 40 years experience mucking around with boats.
Like any operation there are several ways of performing it - this is just one...
Start with a piece of timber – I used 140mm x 30mm x 90mm
Shape with a slight taper so it will release.
Round edges (uniform Radius)
Coat timber with flow coat (also known as gelcoat with styrene)
Once dried - sand and polish and then coat with release wax
I use a gelcoat then tissue chop strand 2-3 x layers 2oz carbon matt and a layer of ½ oz chop strand for grip (exterior) – I use west system 105 epoxy.
I make two of these per ski
Find the balance point of the ski – mark out from your hand grip the shape
Fit and adjust hand grip to suit hole – I use a piece of divinycell to space out (adjust depth). Mix up some glue and set hand piece into position – use something to keep open the hand grip’s shape.
Using a dremel tool (very small grinder) reduce edges around the carbon pocket to form a tapered channel. I use several strands of carbon weave and spread it around and around the hand grip.
Once dried cut excess material and round off the edges of the hand grip and round off the edges.
Fair, Prime & Paint (2 pack) colour matched to ski (hint – it’s better to paint the inside of the hand grip prior to fitting to the ski – too hard to get the spray gun in! Yes, I learnt the hard way)
Finished product
Need better drainage on your ski: www.surfski.info/forum/15-tips/18192-ven...y-bailer-plasty.html
↧
New to the Byron Bay area - by: seajak
Hi folks,
I've recently moved up from Sydney and am currently living in Tyagarah. I've just retired and paddle a Stellar S18S. I've been paddling for about 10 years and have gradually moved up to the Stellar through a succession of sit-on-tops. I've paddled Sydney Harbour and Botany Bay when the wind was up but have not paddled open ocean. I'm looking forward to competing in the Northern Marathon Series next year but also want to start paddling out of the Bay. Are there any groups that paddle regularly on the Bay or the Brunswick R. that wouldn't mind me tagging along. I'm especially looking for some help in negotiating the surf zone and catching runners.
cheers,
clay
I've recently moved up from Sydney and am currently living in Tyagarah. I've just retired and paddle a Stellar S18S. I've been paddling for about 10 years and have gradually moved up to the Stellar through a succession of sit-on-tops. I've paddled Sydney Harbour and Botany Bay when the wind was up but have not paddled open ocean. I'm looking forward to competing in the Northern Marathon Series next year but also want to start paddling out of the Bay. Are there any groups that paddle regularly on the Bay or the Brunswick R. that wouldn't mind me tagging along. I'm especially looking for some help in negotiating the surf zone and catching runners.
cheers,
clay
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Surfski hire in Greek Islands - by: grasshopper
Does anyone know if it's possible to hire a surfski in the Greek Islands?
Will be staying on Zakynthos but also other islands, availability of surfski hire could influence choice of next island.
Will be staying on Zakynthos but also other islands, availability of surfski hire could influence choice of next island.
↧
Carnage just getting to the start line - by: AR_convert
These ocean racers were pretty keen to race having to get through this on the way out to the start line
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Stellar SR excel vs SEI advantage vs SEI excel - by: PJAW
I've been paddling for about 3 months. Spent 1 month in a V8 then moved onto at V10S black tip 1G. Found that when it was rough (>20knts) I would intermittently fall out of the V10S and found it hard to put power down due to stability. Recently tried the SR 2G advantage in mild chop. Loved the boat, felt good, easy to get on runners, just a bit wide in the seat (I would have to pad it out). Then tried the SEI advantage in >20knts, 1.5 m of swell. Still felt reasonably stable, occasionally having to catch myself but was having a heap of fun. Didn't fall out. I really liked the feel of these stellar boats and want to get one. Trying to make a decision on an SR excel or an SEI (model to be decided). Never got to compare the two boats in the rough, won't be possible to have both boats out at the same time. I'm inclined to get an SEI as thought that although a little above my skill level it gives me something to grow into. Would prefer the lighter excel layup for ease of carrying the 500m (esp post paddle) and some improved performance. However, read some reviews saying that for reasons of less flex (more than weight) they are more unstable. worried that moving into the SEI excel may be above my skill level. Don't have access to try one out.
I really love the downwind runs. I don't want a ski if I can't do this with it, even if it's faster on the flat water.
Do people think the excel layup will be significantly more unstable for me as a beginner paddler? Am I best going the SR 2G first (though I fear growing out of it too soon).
I appreciate the cost differences. I'm prepared to pay the extra money for what I want.
I really love the downwind runs. I don't want a ski if I can't do this with it, even if it's faster on the flat water.
Do people think the excel layup will be significantly more unstable for me as a beginner paddler? Am I best going the SR 2G first (though I fear growing out of it too soon).
I appreciate the cost differences. I'm prepared to pay the extra money for what I want.
↧
NELO 560M Review - by: photofr
The new NELO SURFSKIS have made their way to Brittany, France. With this comes the brand new NELO testing facility: it’s very small, but easily accessible for about 1/3 of the entire French population. The small testing facility is conveniently located on the water’s edge of a protected sea, with easy access to the ocean less than 1km on a surfski.
Currently in stock for testing: the NELO 520 and the NELO 560M.
The NELO 560L is on its way!
The 520 is super cool, and very versatile (I’ll spend more time on it during the next couple of weeks and try to provide some real life feedback) but this review is about the NELO 560M.
NUMBERS
560 represents its length: 560cm, 5.6 meters, or 18’4 feet.
M Represents a ski designed for Medium to Small paddlers (roughly 77 kilos or less).
(For reference: I still haven’t measured the width, but it’s supposed to be 45cm.)
LOOKS & FEEL
First thing out of the box, you’ll notice a very glossy and shiny ski. Its near-perfect finish will still remind you that this was hand-made, with real humans behind it. Overall, the ski is super clean, so don’t expect too many blemishes because it’s super sharp looking.
The curves are beautiful: essentially, a needle nose ski with a “fat” behind for added stability exactly where you’d need it (behind you).
RIGGING
There’s no denying it: you will be very impressed. I know I was blown away by what I saw. First, there’s the carbon foot plate and pedals (they are very different from anything out there). Adjusting the foot plate length is super easy and very secure once in place. Speaking of adjustments: I have “the world’s shortest legs” and I like to have my knees a little higher than most people. Naturally, the first thing I did was to check if this was going to “work” for me. So, shorter paddlers: finally a ski that will fit you, with plenty of room for the long-legged-counterpart.
Next, you’ll stumble on the foot strap: this one is padded, but rigid. The additional power you’ll get from it may just blow you away. Its adjustment is a little finicky but actually quite simple, with multiple pre-sets.
Took me 15 minutes to unpack the entire ski, rig it, and paddle away. Takes about 20 seconds to change the foot plate length. Too cool.
BUCKET
There’s something missing in the bucket: the hump is nearly all-gone. How does this affect drainage? I don’t know, but I can tell you this: I have swamped my ski trying to draft a boat and it emptied itself in record time. We may very well see copies of the disappearing hump quite soon, because it may not be needed as much as we “thought”.
SEATING AREA
It’s higher than what you are used to if you have used a ski in the last 7 or 8 years, but that’s a good thing. After all, think about it: when we want to seat down at the beach, we try to find a rock, a stump, a step… something to ultimately place our butts higher than our heels. It sounds simple, but try this: seat down on the floor (butt and heels at the same level) and stay there for 2 hours. Now try the same thing, but instead of seating on the floor, try seating on a small step, or even a small phone book. Feels better, doesn’t it?
Well, essentially, the seating area will feel way more natural, right off the bat. More comfort equals more power, so I am all for it and wouldn’t have it any other way.
The bucket is an ergo bucket that isn’t as deep as many other skis. This is one of the first skis where I won’t need any padding for hips, but because it’s ergo, my wife will also be able to paddle it.
Is the bucket the most comfortable bucket ever? I don’t know, and I seriously doubt it. Everyone is made differently, so you’ll have to see for yourselves. For me, it feels natural, and very comfortable (I have narrow hip bones). For my wife, she loves it (and needless to say: she wished she had narrower hip bones).
DRAINAGE
The NELO drainage is highly efficient: see above as it drains faster than ever. The best part: its ease of operation, where finally you are able to concentrate on your paddling, while using your feet to naturally open and close the latch. It’s very intuitive, and very well placed.
THE CATCH AREA
Being a “needle nose” ski, you’ll find the paddle entry point to be very narrow. It’s pure physics: this will make for a more efficient paddle stroke. There’s one little drawback that I noticed after the first 20k: the outside of the pedals stick out a little… and I have hit it with my paddle a few times, but that’s an easy fix.
For me, there’s nothing worse than a wide catch area – coming from someone with a narrow frame. This feels super nice, comparable to the Spark, but with more comfort and less “boat”.
STABILITY
The seating area of the 560M feels higher than the V10L, and much higher than the Spark. Stability, however, feels way better than the Spark and better than the V10L. I feel a lot of additional stability due to how snug the boat feels (you are part of the ski for a change), and the wider area behind the seat is just added bonus for an Elite ski. Primary stability is okay, but secondary stability is excellent. See, I did it: I spoke about stability without revealing any trade secrets regarding the hull .
SMALLER DETAILS
There are couple of things that also impressed me:
There are three leash plugs: one under the seat designed to be used as a leash attachment point, and two more in front of the footwell. The two points up front can be used to secure gear, or as a towing point if need be. It’s no big deal, but I really like that.
The plastic rudder cover is too simple: no tools required to open it, so a big bonus there. I recommend taping your Allen key in there, with surf wax or similar.
The stiff foot strap makes for a great handle and secures the boat on your shoulder when the wind is high.
SIDEWIND
This is the lowest profile ski I have been on in a long time. The closest thing may have been the Chalup Ski back in 1988. Having said that, smaller paddler (heck, ALL paddlers) will find that paddling this ski in side wind may be easier than with any other skis, mostly because the bow doesn’t get blown away like a butterfly in the wind.
WET OR DRY RIDE?
It’s a wet ride, where you are part of the ocean. The drainage is lighting fast, but you will get wet. Sidewalls are not too tall (as I feel they should be) because truth be told: you are going to get wet any way. Remounting is therefore easier, but it's still a wet ride. The deflector is a huge bonus, and works wonders. Mine came with it, and I believe that’s standard on all NELO Surfskis.
UPWIND
I have been paddling in the same spot for about 2 years and I just blew my personal “best” out of the water on an upwind section I have done 100’s of times. Average speed was high (for me) and I was still getting used to the ski. Upwind speed is good, but the feeling was great; I seriously had fun going up wind up swell.
DOWNWIND
As mentioned above, it’s a bit of a wet ride, but one that I thoroughly enjoyed. Conditions were chaotic, with confused seas, but I was able to use my body (much) more than ever before. It’s another dimension, literally.
Most of this comes from the shorter ski, shorter than it’s been for the past decade, but about the same as back when I had tons of fun in the ocean. Essentially, the ski is super maneuverable, catches runs very easily, and is more responsive than anything I have been on. I am seemingly able to paddle less, where I am finally able to use my body weight to keep that nose in the “hole”. Apparently, the laziness in me is coming out, and that’s cool as heck.
ACCELERATION
Faster – way faster… hands down.
WEIGHT AND STIFFNESS
The skis is about the same weight as the V10 GT, but not as stiff. Don’t get me wrong, it’s solid, and quite stiff with zero soft spots to notice, but not quite the brutal stiffness of prepreg. To be fair, it’s also more “absorbing”, especially when it comes to the imperfections encountered at sea. It’s a more comfortable ride that doesn’t seem to slow performance, but that’s just how I feel having paddled both.
The weight of my skis (carbon sandwich construction) is 9.8 kilos, all rigged, including rudder and rear bungie. Yes, I can carry it under my arm all day.
MADE IN EUROPE
Having a ski made in Europe feels good (since I now live in Europe and all) but there are other advantages. Shipping takes about 7 days to reach European countries, and a custom ski can be ordered with approximately 6-week of a waiting period (not 4 months like numerous other companies outsourcing to China).
I don’t know, call me stupid, but this is 2016: I would proudly (and will) place a flag from Portugal on my ski, but I kind of find it difficult to put a Chinese flag on one of my Stand Up Paddle boards made in China. Call me sentimental, but I will also have an Hawaiian flag on my ski
Plus, it’s not just made in Europe, or just made in Portugal; it’s made from one of the biggest composite provider in the World, and trusted by more Olympians than any other brands out there. So yeah: I am proud that it’s made near home.
PRICES
Prices are always a factor, granted, but this should put a smile on people’s faces. A light surfski is now affordable!
Two types of constructions are available.
TYPE 4 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Kevlar/Epoxy
Approx. 11 kilos
Approx. 2450 euros
TYPE 7 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Epoxy
Approx. 9.5 kilos
Approx. 3850 euros
For reference, I just bought a Stand Up Paddle board, Carbon/Epoxy construction, 14 feet in length, without a rudder, for 3800 euros, and it still weighs 11.5 kilos, and it wasn’t made in Europe.
PERKS OF A SHORTER SKI
What can you too expect from a shorter ski?
For starter, it’s easier to handle on land, where you are most likely to damage your boat. Inevitably, your ski may last longer from less accidental damage on land.
It’s shorter, so there’s less flex on the water, and on the roof of your car; that’s just pure physics.
More reactive to body shifts, and more maneuverable downwind should yield more fun, better average speed, and less paddling fatigue. Keeping the bow into the “hole” will be faster from a more responsive ski, and will allow you to “lock in that wave” longer than ever. Look it up: skis in the 18-19 foot range have always been very fast, see Molokai Channel crossing history.
If you can fit your car in a garage, you should no longer have any problem storing your ski right at home.
FASTER ACCELERATIONS
Shorter waves heaven: the 560M does really well in open ocean swells, but for the majority of people on surfskis, downwind in smaller conditions or in a bay will have you smiling again, and downwind paddling in the Mediterranean Sea will have you “flying”.
CHOICE OF COLORS
You can have a white ski… if that’s what you still want, but you can also choose from a huge variety of colors available online.
CUSTOM SKIS
Custom skis come with your custom colors. Turnaround times take about 6 weeks.
SHIPPING
There are 2 ways to get your new skis to you.
1. You can place your order with one of the reps in France, and pick it up from them (no extra charge).
2. You can place your order with one of the reps, and have it delivered to your house (for about 100 euros more).
IN A NUTSHELL
The new 560M is a shorter surfski that’s surprisingly more responsive than other skis people are used to. It excels for shorter and super light paddlers (though I am told the standard 560 is well-geared towards bigger paddlers like Oscar). When it comes to flat water paddling, the 560M doesn’t disappoint.
When you first paddle the ski, you are likely to notice:
Its needle-nose look, and tight paddle catch area.
Wide area located seemingly behind you.
Higher seating position; comfortable.
Very secure foot strap system.
Good stability for an Elite ski.
Amazing downwind control.
You will be “one” with the water, literally.
My favorite: the ability to once again affect your ski in the surf, even if you weight “nothing”.
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QUESTIONS, TESTING OR ORDERING IN FRANCE
Contact: Ludovic BACQUET
NELO Testing Center – FRANCE (West Coast)
E: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
I: www.nelokayaks.com
T: 06.24.74.53.70
International Calls: 011 [33] 624-745-370
Currently in stock for testing: the NELO 520 and the NELO 560M.
The NELO 560L is on its way!
The 520 is super cool, and very versatile (I’ll spend more time on it during the next couple of weeks and try to provide some real life feedback) but this review is about the NELO 560M.
NUMBERS
560 represents its length: 560cm, 5.6 meters, or 18’4 feet.
M Represents a ski designed for Medium to Small paddlers (roughly 77 kilos or less).
(For reference: I still haven’t measured the width, but it’s supposed to be 45cm.)
LOOKS & FEEL
First thing out of the box, you’ll notice a very glossy and shiny ski. Its near-perfect finish will still remind you that this was hand-made, with real humans behind it. Overall, the ski is super clean, so don’t expect too many blemishes because it’s super sharp looking.
The curves are beautiful: essentially, a needle nose ski with a “fat” behind for added stability exactly where you’d need it (behind you).
RIGGING
There’s no denying it: you will be very impressed. I know I was blown away by what I saw. First, there’s the carbon foot plate and pedals (they are very different from anything out there). Adjusting the foot plate length is super easy and very secure once in place. Speaking of adjustments: I have “the world’s shortest legs” and I like to have my knees a little higher than most people. Naturally, the first thing I did was to check if this was going to “work” for me. So, shorter paddlers: finally a ski that will fit you, with plenty of room for the long-legged-counterpart.
Next, you’ll stumble on the foot strap: this one is padded, but rigid. The additional power you’ll get from it may just blow you away. Its adjustment is a little finicky but actually quite simple, with multiple pre-sets.
Took me 15 minutes to unpack the entire ski, rig it, and paddle away. Takes about 20 seconds to change the foot plate length. Too cool.
BUCKET
There’s something missing in the bucket: the hump is nearly all-gone. How does this affect drainage? I don’t know, but I can tell you this: I have swamped my ski trying to draft a boat and it emptied itself in record time. We may very well see copies of the disappearing hump quite soon, because it may not be needed as much as we “thought”.
SEATING AREA
It’s higher than what you are used to if you have used a ski in the last 7 or 8 years, but that’s a good thing. After all, think about it: when we want to seat down at the beach, we try to find a rock, a stump, a step… something to ultimately place our butts higher than our heels. It sounds simple, but try this: seat down on the floor (butt and heels at the same level) and stay there for 2 hours. Now try the same thing, but instead of seating on the floor, try seating on a small step, or even a small phone book. Feels better, doesn’t it?
Well, essentially, the seating area will feel way more natural, right off the bat. More comfort equals more power, so I am all for it and wouldn’t have it any other way.
The bucket is an ergo bucket that isn’t as deep as many other skis. This is one of the first skis where I won’t need any padding for hips, but because it’s ergo, my wife will also be able to paddle it.
Is the bucket the most comfortable bucket ever? I don’t know, and I seriously doubt it. Everyone is made differently, so you’ll have to see for yourselves. For me, it feels natural, and very comfortable (I have narrow hip bones). For my wife, she loves it (and needless to say: she wished she had narrower hip bones).
DRAINAGE
The NELO drainage is highly efficient: see above as it drains faster than ever. The best part: its ease of operation, where finally you are able to concentrate on your paddling, while using your feet to naturally open and close the latch. It’s very intuitive, and very well placed.
THE CATCH AREA
Being a “needle nose” ski, you’ll find the paddle entry point to be very narrow. It’s pure physics: this will make for a more efficient paddle stroke. There’s one little drawback that I noticed after the first 20k: the outside of the pedals stick out a little… and I have hit it with my paddle a few times, but that’s an easy fix.
For me, there’s nothing worse than a wide catch area – coming from someone with a narrow frame. This feels super nice, comparable to the Spark, but with more comfort and less “boat”.
STABILITY
The seating area of the 560M feels higher than the V10L, and much higher than the Spark. Stability, however, feels way better than the Spark and better than the V10L. I feel a lot of additional stability due to how snug the boat feels (you are part of the ski for a change), and the wider area behind the seat is just added bonus for an Elite ski. Primary stability is okay, but secondary stability is excellent. See, I did it: I spoke about stability without revealing any trade secrets regarding the hull .
SMALLER DETAILS
There are couple of things that also impressed me:
There are three leash plugs: one under the seat designed to be used as a leash attachment point, and two more in front of the footwell. The two points up front can be used to secure gear, or as a towing point if need be. It’s no big deal, but I really like that.
The plastic rudder cover is too simple: no tools required to open it, so a big bonus there. I recommend taping your Allen key in there, with surf wax or similar.
The stiff foot strap makes for a great handle and secures the boat on your shoulder when the wind is high.
SIDEWIND
This is the lowest profile ski I have been on in a long time. The closest thing may have been the Chalup Ski back in 1988. Having said that, smaller paddler (heck, ALL paddlers) will find that paddling this ski in side wind may be easier than with any other skis, mostly because the bow doesn’t get blown away like a butterfly in the wind.
WET OR DRY RIDE?
It’s a wet ride, where you are part of the ocean. The drainage is lighting fast, but you will get wet. Sidewalls are not too tall (as I feel they should be) because truth be told: you are going to get wet any way. Remounting is therefore easier, but it's still a wet ride. The deflector is a huge bonus, and works wonders. Mine came with it, and I believe that’s standard on all NELO Surfskis.
UPWIND
I have been paddling in the same spot for about 2 years and I just blew my personal “best” out of the water on an upwind section I have done 100’s of times. Average speed was high (for me) and I was still getting used to the ski. Upwind speed is good, but the feeling was great; I seriously had fun going up wind up swell.
DOWNWIND
As mentioned above, it’s a bit of a wet ride, but one that I thoroughly enjoyed. Conditions were chaotic, with confused seas, but I was able to use my body (much) more than ever before. It’s another dimension, literally.
Most of this comes from the shorter ski, shorter than it’s been for the past decade, but about the same as back when I had tons of fun in the ocean. Essentially, the ski is super maneuverable, catches runs very easily, and is more responsive than anything I have been on. I am seemingly able to paddle less, where I am finally able to use my body weight to keep that nose in the “hole”. Apparently, the laziness in me is coming out, and that’s cool as heck.
ACCELERATION
Faster – way faster… hands down.
WEIGHT AND STIFFNESS
The skis is about the same weight as the V10 GT, but not as stiff. Don’t get me wrong, it’s solid, and quite stiff with zero soft spots to notice, but not quite the brutal stiffness of prepreg. To be fair, it’s also more “absorbing”, especially when it comes to the imperfections encountered at sea. It’s a more comfortable ride that doesn’t seem to slow performance, but that’s just how I feel having paddled both.
The weight of my skis (carbon sandwich construction) is 9.8 kilos, all rigged, including rudder and rear bungie. Yes, I can carry it under my arm all day.
MADE IN EUROPE
Having a ski made in Europe feels good (since I now live in Europe and all) but there are other advantages. Shipping takes about 7 days to reach European countries, and a custom ski can be ordered with approximately 6-week of a waiting period (not 4 months like numerous other companies outsourcing to China).
I don’t know, call me stupid, but this is 2016: I would proudly (and will) place a flag from Portugal on my ski, but I kind of find it difficult to put a Chinese flag on one of my Stand Up Paddle boards made in China. Call me sentimental, but I will also have an Hawaiian flag on my ski
Plus, it’s not just made in Europe, or just made in Portugal; it’s made from one of the biggest composite provider in the World, and trusted by more Olympians than any other brands out there. So yeah: I am proud that it’s made near home.
PRICES
Prices are always a factor, granted, but this should put a smile on people’s faces. A light surfski is now affordable!
Two types of constructions are available.
TYPE 4 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Kevlar/Epoxy
Approx. 11 kilos
Approx. 2450 euros
TYPE 7 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Epoxy
Approx. 9.5 kilos
Approx. 3850 euros
For reference, I just bought a Stand Up Paddle board, Carbon/Epoxy construction, 14 feet in length, without a rudder, for 3800 euros, and it still weighs 11.5 kilos, and it wasn’t made in Europe.
PERKS OF A SHORTER SKI
What can you too expect from a shorter ski?
For starter, it’s easier to handle on land, where you are most likely to damage your boat. Inevitably, your ski may last longer from less accidental damage on land.
It’s shorter, so there’s less flex on the water, and on the roof of your car; that’s just pure physics.
More reactive to body shifts, and more maneuverable downwind should yield more fun, better average speed, and less paddling fatigue. Keeping the bow into the “hole” will be faster from a more responsive ski, and will allow you to “lock in that wave” longer than ever. Look it up: skis in the 18-19 foot range have always been very fast, see Molokai Channel crossing history.
If you can fit your car in a garage, you should no longer have any problem storing your ski right at home.
FASTER ACCELERATIONS
Shorter waves heaven: the 560M does really well in open ocean swells, but for the majority of people on surfskis, downwind in smaller conditions or in a bay will have you smiling again, and downwind paddling in the Mediterranean Sea will have you “flying”.
CHOICE OF COLORS
You can have a white ski… if that’s what you still want, but you can also choose from a huge variety of colors available online.
CUSTOM SKIS
Custom skis come with your custom colors. Turnaround times take about 6 weeks.
SHIPPING
There are 2 ways to get your new skis to you.
1. You can place your order with one of the reps in France, and pick it up from them (no extra charge).
2. You can place your order with one of the reps, and have it delivered to your house (for about 100 euros more).
IN A NUTSHELL
The new 560M is a shorter surfski that’s surprisingly more responsive than other skis people are used to. It excels for shorter and super light paddlers (though I am told the standard 560 is well-geared towards bigger paddlers like Oscar). When it comes to flat water paddling, the 560M doesn’t disappoint.
When you first paddle the ski, you are likely to notice:
Its needle-nose look, and tight paddle catch area.
Wide area located seemingly behind you.
Higher seating position; comfortable.
Very secure foot strap system.
Good stability for an Elite ski.
Amazing downwind control.
You will be “one” with the water, literally.
My favorite: the ability to once again affect your ski in the surf, even if you weight “nothing”.
QUESTIONS, TESTING OR ORDERING IN FRANCE
Contact: Ludovic BACQUET
NELO Testing Center – FRANCE (West Coast)
E: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
I: www.nelokayaks.com
T: 06.24.74.53.70
International Calls: 011 [33] 624-745-370
↧
↧
Paddle Faster - by: photofr
For the last couple of months, I have done a lot of ski demos and placed a sheer number of people on different skis. The common denominator is that paddlers want to be faster.
There are tons of things you can do (right now) to become a faster paddler, including purchasing a new ski - but perhaps for different reasons than you think.
NEW SKI
Let’s face it: new skis are tons of fun, and just thinking about unwrapping your new ski will yield a smile.
In an ideal world, your new ski will prove to be faster with a robot on it, as well as with you on it. If your ski is more than 5 years old, chances are that you can easily find a new model that will be just as stable, yet faster for the conditions you paddle in. Now, don’t just run to the nearest store: continue reading!
In the worst case scenario, you replace your ski with a ski that’s just not stable enough for you. Here’s what happens next: your paddling technique deteriorates, you lose efficiency, as well as endurance. Ultimately, you lose speed. You also take the risk of not being able to paddle as often (too rough, you are now grounded on the tippy ski). When you paddle less, you risk becoming slower. This worst case scenario is probably the most common error that I see happening all the time.
It’s been said before: stability before speed. What about a bit of a challenge then?
Hands down, you must have a stable ski if you want to go faster. After all, a stable-enough ski allows you to apply your newly acquired powerful paddling technique. I do however recommend, for those who can afford it, to challenge yourselves with a tippy ski – at least from time to time. So in that case, getting a tippy ski as an additional ski could make sense, and ultimately could make you more comfortable in rough water (on a more stable ski).
As you probably notice, the key is to find the right balance, and there’s a fine line for mistakes. The ultimate is to find a new surfski that will only be slightly tippier. Your new ski should be comfortable to paddle, and should excel with YOU ON IT in the conditions that are ultimate for you in the near future. Lucky for you, this is 2016, and there are now 100’s of models available that are deemed “quite stable” for an Intermediate ski, or “quite stable” for an elite ski.
TECHNIQUE
You did say that you wanted to be faster, right?
Let me try to simplify things a bit: a faster ski will improve your speed by about 0.3 km/h (if you are very lucky). In a matter of weeks, and about 20 hours of hard work, you can improve your speed by about 1.2 km/h with better technique.
I know this because of experience, where most instructors can take an intermediate paddler, place him or her in the right ski and make them faster with better technique. Just so you know, there’s a lot more than just videos on paddling strokes to make you faster on the water, and that’s part of what I consider “technique”.
Make no mistakes about it though: It all starts with having a ski stable enough.
COMFORT
Comfort is another tricky one. What’s comfortable for me might seem torture to you. As a general rule, take your comfort to a new level by finding the following ultimate ski:
A stable enough ski (as mentioned) – so that you can apply technique and strength.
A comfortable bucket area and sitting position (pad it if needed) – for more efficiency.
A narrow catch area – this one cannot be modified, so be sure you aim right.
A light enough ski – pure enjoyment, and the more fun you have, the more often you will paddle.
Very reactive ski – if you just want to go straight, perhaps a flat water K1 is your ticket. For everything else that has to do with surfski paddling, you want a very responsive ski that will bring smiles in open water.
PADDLE
Review your paddle. All of your technique and power is transferred directly to your paddle. It has to be “just right for you”.
Your blade might be too soft, or the wrong shape, your shaft might be too stiff, but more often than not, your blade surface may even be too large. There’s no need to destroy your shoulders while on a surfski, so be sure that your shaft isn’t set too long either.
The right paddle choices for YOU will yield more efficiency, and more speed.
CLOTHING
You want to be safe out there, but instead of donning that 7mm scuba diving wetsuit, you may want to look at alternatives. Ideally, you should have as much freedom of movement as possible, especially around the shoulders and waist area.
STATE OF MIND
This one plays a huge role in your speed. Try your favorite 15 km loop with a positive attitude and a smile, then try the same 15 km loop with nothing but negative thoughts. See the difference, because I can’t totally explain that one. In a nutshell, you want to have a positive attitude while on the water; calm and relaxed at all times. Bring some “Aloha” into your paddling.
I am certain that there are many more ways to improve your speed on a surfski. Share some of your experience, because nothing is too small when it comes to making a slight improvement in speed.
Here's a good example:
The woman in the picture has been paddling kayaks for about 20 years. In 2014, she got herself a surfski that's too tippy for her. Since then, she's only paddled some 50 or 60 km (TOTAL). Now look at that smile as she is on the water with her husband! She simply on a more stable ski, able to apply her technique.
![]()
There are tons of things you can do (right now) to become a faster paddler, including purchasing a new ski - but perhaps for different reasons than you think.
NEW SKI
Let’s face it: new skis are tons of fun, and just thinking about unwrapping your new ski will yield a smile.
In an ideal world, your new ski will prove to be faster with a robot on it, as well as with you on it. If your ski is more than 5 years old, chances are that you can easily find a new model that will be just as stable, yet faster for the conditions you paddle in. Now, don’t just run to the nearest store: continue reading!
In the worst case scenario, you replace your ski with a ski that’s just not stable enough for you. Here’s what happens next: your paddling technique deteriorates, you lose efficiency, as well as endurance. Ultimately, you lose speed. You also take the risk of not being able to paddle as often (too rough, you are now grounded on the tippy ski). When you paddle less, you risk becoming slower. This worst case scenario is probably the most common error that I see happening all the time.
It’s been said before: stability before speed. What about a bit of a challenge then?
Hands down, you must have a stable ski if you want to go faster. After all, a stable-enough ski allows you to apply your newly acquired powerful paddling technique. I do however recommend, for those who can afford it, to challenge yourselves with a tippy ski – at least from time to time. So in that case, getting a tippy ski as an additional ski could make sense, and ultimately could make you more comfortable in rough water (on a more stable ski).
As you probably notice, the key is to find the right balance, and there’s a fine line for mistakes. The ultimate is to find a new surfski that will only be slightly tippier. Your new ski should be comfortable to paddle, and should excel with YOU ON IT in the conditions that are ultimate for you in the near future. Lucky for you, this is 2016, and there are now 100’s of models available that are deemed “quite stable” for an Intermediate ski, or “quite stable” for an elite ski.
TECHNIQUE
You did say that you wanted to be faster, right?
Let me try to simplify things a bit: a faster ski will improve your speed by about 0.3 km/h (if you are very lucky). In a matter of weeks, and about 20 hours of hard work, you can improve your speed by about 1.2 km/h with better technique.
I know this because of experience, where most instructors can take an intermediate paddler, place him or her in the right ski and make them faster with better technique. Just so you know, there’s a lot more than just videos on paddling strokes to make you faster on the water, and that’s part of what I consider “technique”.
Make no mistakes about it though: It all starts with having a ski stable enough.
COMFORT
Comfort is another tricky one. What’s comfortable for me might seem torture to you. As a general rule, take your comfort to a new level by finding the following ultimate ski:
A stable enough ski (as mentioned) – so that you can apply technique and strength.
A comfortable bucket area and sitting position (pad it if needed) – for more efficiency.
A narrow catch area – this one cannot be modified, so be sure you aim right.
A light enough ski – pure enjoyment, and the more fun you have, the more often you will paddle.
Very reactive ski – if you just want to go straight, perhaps a flat water K1 is your ticket. For everything else that has to do with surfski paddling, you want a very responsive ski that will bring smiles in open water.
PADDLE
Review your paddle. All of your technique and power is transferred directly to your paddle. It has to be “just right for you”.
Your blade might be too soft, or the wrong shape, your shaft might be too stiff, but more often than not, your blade surface may even be too large. There’s no need to destroy your shoulders while on a surfski, so be sure that your shaft isn’t set too long either.
The right paddle choices for YOU will yield more efficiency, and more speed.
CLOTHING
You want to be safe out there, but instead of donning that 7mm scuba diving wetsuit, you may want to look at alternatives. Ideally, you should have as much freedom of movement as possible, especially around the shoulders and waist area.
STATE OF MIND
This one plays a huge role in your speed. Try your favorite 15 km loop with a positive attitude and a smile, then try the same 15 km loop with nothing but negative thoughts. See the difference, because I can’t totally explain that one. In a nutshell, you want to have a positive attitude while on the water; calm and relaxed at all times. Bring some “Aloha” into your paddling.
I am certain that there are many more ways to improve your speed on a surfski. Share some of your experience, because nothing is too small when it comes to making a slight improvement in speed.
Here's a good example:
The woman in the picture has been paddling kayaks for about 20 years. In 2014, she got herself a surfski that's too tippy for her. Since then, she's only paddled some 50 or 60 km (TOTAL). Now look at that smile as she is on the water with her husband! She simply on a more stable ski, able to apply her technique.
↧
Where would you put Fenn Elite S on Weleys diagram - by: 10157485477680607@facebook
Hi, Just wondering where would you put Fenn Elite S on Weleys diagram on www.surfskiracing.org/surfski-reviews-updated-march-2012/
Regarding remount, cockpit, speed and stability?
Regarding remount, cockpit, speed and stability?
↧
New redesigned Stellar SEI 2G Excel Review - by: wesley
I posted my review last night on my site below. The SEI 2G fit nicely between the other intermediate skis and the Elites skis. The newer modern designed skis certainly have something to offer. This is total redesign compared to the SEI 1G. 2G is faster and more stable than the 1G with better bucket, less volume, better handling and oh GLIDE is terrific. I repeat Glide is terrific. This is the Excel version I reviewed at 25lbs.
www.surfskiracing.org/2016/09/stellar-se...xcel-surfski-review/
www.surfskiracing.org/2016/09/stellar-se...xcel-surfski-review/
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