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Paddling in Abu Dhabi - by: JohnK

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Hello paddlers,
I will be in Abu Dhabi in the new few weeks and was wondering if there is a surfski club there who might hire skis for a paddle.
cheers

Perfect Paddle Selection - by: photofr

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Perfect Paddle Selection: There isn’t one, but perhaps this will help…

People often ask: what’s a good paddle, and right there: it hurts. Judging from the lack of information shared about paddles, I guess it’s a difficult subject for most people to get into. I am probably going to fail miserably, but I am going to attempt to simplify things about wing paddles, and put it all into prospective.

It probably helps to point out that wing paddles weren’t originally designed for surfski paddlers, but instead were designed specifically for flat water kayak racing. This is important because originally, paddles were rather unforgiving – zero tolerance for any trajectory deviations (you had to nail your stroke in order to get any benefit out of the paddle).

I like to place wing paddles into three groups:
Powerful & unforgiving, Weak & forgiving, and Everything else in between.

There’s nothing simple about paddle choices, however, it’s slightly easier when you think of what is needed for your particular “program” or needs.

FLAT WATER
For flat water training and racing (on a kayak or on a surfski), you’ll probably want a paddle that is somewhat aggressive and powerful. Aggressive refers to somewhat unforgiving, with usually a very strong catch. Powerful refers here to a large blade size, and even to an abnormally long shaft.

This type of “ideal” paddle may not be very forgiving, but you might survive the shock, only because you are paddling on flat water. Keep in mind that more often than not, flat water training is between 200 meters and 10 to 15 km, so a very large and powerful blade isn’t going to harm you as much as if you were paddling 40-50k in Open Ocean.



OPEN OCEAN
To better determine your paddle needs, ask yourself a few questions:
How rough is your preferred Open Ocean?
What are your preferred distances?
How often do you paddle?

There are many other factors that will determine your next paddle purchase, but I feel that the 3 above will make a world of difference for you.

Generally speaking, you will want to add stability to your ski when facing rough water. A shorter shaft will force you to paddle with a faster stroke rate, thus adding stability. You’ll also want to prevent injuries, so a smaller blade size will be advantageous there. Finally, if you don’t paddle often, your paddle stroke may not be the most accurate: you’ll need a rather forgiving paddle in order to remain comfortably upright.

In my opinion, this is why a great number of paddlers have gone with a smaller blade size, and with a shorter paddle length. This is perhaps also the reason for which paddle manufacturers have gone to great lengths to provide us with very forgiving paddles, which are still quite powerful.

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS
BRACING: Some paddles are horrible at bracing – they provide little or no support. Others are rock solid on the brace, so be sure to test your bracing.
CLEAN EXIT: Some paddles feel so heavy when exiting the water, so look for one with a super clean exit.
CONSTRUCTION: The finish of a paddle usually says it all. Look for paddle makers that have been around for a really long time. I once paddled with my hands for 4.7 km on a huge downwind. That was not very fun. You’ll want to be very confident in your paddle, because you just don’t want it to break.
WEIGHT: Anyone can make a strong paddle with plenty of extra material. The key is to make it strong and LIGHT. This can usually only come from a lot of experience in paddle-making.
ADJUSTABLE: Don’t think about the resale value. Think of the max length you’ll ever need, and go down from there.
STIFFER BLADES: The blade acts as an anchor, so make sure you don’t have a noodle of a blade. Since the catch is so important, make sure your blade is as stiff and as light as possible.
SOFTER SHAFTS: Softer shafts will save your shoulders, and proven to prevent injuries. A shoulder injury is not an “overnight” problem: it’s for life. Do yourself a favor, go for a softer shaft.
FORGIVING: Open Ocean paddling isn’t a perfect science, and the effect of water moving all over the place around you is going to affect your “perfect paddling stroke” greatly. For this reason, you’ll probably want to aim at a very forgiving paddle to favor downwind or chaotic conditions.

PERSONAL CONSIDERATIONS
SKI WIDTH: You’ll need at little bit of a longer paddle when using a wider surfski, this is especially in reference to the ski width where your blade actually enters the water.
SEAT HEIGHT: You’ll also need a longer paddle if your surfski seat is highly padded or naturally higher than others.
PADDLING BEHIND: you’ll want a shorter paddle to somewhat prevent paddling too much behind you.

Paddler’s arm length, paddler’s torso height, paddling style, water conditions, paddler’s weight, and ski weight will all affect your paddle choice: mainly blade size, shaft size, and shaft stiffness.

FAVORITE
It’s so much easier for me to tell you which paddle I did not appreciate and why – but that’s for another day. Today, I can tell you this:

Braca has been making paddles for a very long time. One of their most popular model ever built (and most duplicated blade on the market) is the Braca IV (4). It seems that Fenn and Epic even based their paddle on it, amongst others. It’s a paddle that I liked to paddle with, but I truly fell in love with the Braca XI (11).

The Braca XI is the newest Braca paddle produced. It is based on an exclusive license by Van Dusen (Massachusetts, USA) which underwent a great deal of lab and field testing. Aside from being a beautiful paddle with a lot of twist, I find the Braca XI to provide me with a super clean catch, and a very clean exit. It’s one of the most efficient and comfortable paddle I have had. As a bonus, I find the Braca XI to provide me with a solid brace.

There’s no way that the Braca XI could be everyone’s favorite, but I highly recommend everyone in the market for a new paddle to at least give it a try, especially if you are going to paddle in chaotic waters.


Thermoplastic Surfskis, Racing Skis - by: Uffilation

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Made the list to seek for a downriver (stone hitting) alternative for the flatter days(+family/guests "abuse ski"), maybe someone has a use for the list for his/her own quest. I guess there are more thermoplastic surfskis and SOT-type-Ski-Hybrids on the market, so you are invited to add the list or correct mistakes. tia

Actual prices s.b. outdated or differ or be lower or ...:

Spirit PRS SKI, Spirit PRS Elite SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 567cm
Width: 50cm
Moulded weight: 20.5kg
Moulded weight, Elite: 18.3kg
Weights fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white+many others as per google
Price: from AU$1595, 1190€

Spirit Racing SKI
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 496m
Width: 51cm
Moulded weight: 19.5kg
Weight fully outfitted: ?
Colours: white
Price: from AU $1295

Spirit Fury Racing Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Moulded Weight: 19kg
Moulded Weight: Elite 17.6kg
Length: 570m
Width: 47cm
Price: from AU$ 1895.00

FINN Molokai
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length 590m
Width: 47,5cm
Moulded Weight: 18kg
Price: AU$ $2150 (website)

FINN Endorfinn
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: Australia
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Width: 54cm
Standard Weight 18kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Lightweight 15kg plus deckout 5-6kg
Standard AU$1399 (website)
Lightweight AU$1649 (website)

Cobra Surf Ski
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: New Zealand
Material: PE
Length: 520cm
Weight: 21 kg?
Price: ?

VAJDA Raptor Ski
Manufacturing process: thermoforming
Made in: Slovakia
Material: double layered ABS-type with outer acrylic layer
Length: 535cm
Width: 53cm
Weight fully outfitted: 19.5kg
Colours: pearl white, metallic: orange, red, blue
Price: 1250-1350+- €

Epic V7
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
Made in: South Africa ? (test paddled one with Made in USA sticker though, anyone has details?)
Material: PE, solid skin with foam layer
Length 520m
Width: 54cm
Moulded weight: <19kg
Weight fully outfitted: 22.7kg (from EPIC website)
Colours: white
Price: $1495, Au$ 1995, 1295€

THINK Nitro/Pyranha Octane
Manufacturing process: rotomoulding
To be made in: England?
Material: PE
Length 535cm
Width: 53cm
Color: orange, white

Liker Surfski PE
Maker: Liker Kayak, China
Length: 505cm
Width:55cm
Depth:35cm
Weight:21kgs

NELO 510, PE ... ????
pops up in the 2016 pricelist for surfskis , so?

Travelling with you Surfski - by: CJM

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Just wanted to share my latest experience with travelling in high winds and my surkski.
Drove down to Wollongong yesterday from Sydney early in the morning. The winds were light and nothing to be concerned about when travelling on the freeway at 110km/hr. But on the way home the wind had picked up to Gale force. I had to pull over in fear of my kayak getting ripped off the roof. The whole car was shaking sideways from the wind. Luckily I had this device from Rhino-Rack to secure the nose. Easily opened up the bonnet, threw in the hatch fastener and secured the nose of my Epic V10.
What other options are there for securing your kayak to car?
I must say this simple strap worked a treat but surely people are travelling with other devices?

Huki pedal flop fix - by: WingSuit

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Does anyone have a picture of the set up for the additional bungee on the Huki pedals to prevent pedal "flop"? I think I remember how to rig that little bungee but I just want to confirm that I am getting it right. Thanks in advance.

To Aurelius - by: drjay9051

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Trying to contact Aurelius but I see no way to P.M. on the forum? I believe we are both in Central Forida??

If so how do i contact???

fitting a cadence sensor to a paddle - by: kevin brunette

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Does anyone have experience of fitting a cadence sensor on a paddle? I have a GARMIN FR910XT that can receive cadence input, but this seems to be limited to placing the transmitter on the crank on a bike. Would an accelerometer provide the necessary signal if placed on the base of a blade? Does it need to be a GARMIN product?
Another method to measure cadence could be to link the device with a foot pod placed under a footpad. Has anyone considered this?

Reverse bows - by: Uffilation

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Yep, I got hooked by those reverse bows ...
Did I miss any? tia

OCEAN: OSS1 -OSS4
oceansurfski dot com
(Felci Windseeker > Code Zero)

CODE ZERO, CODE 2.0
FG Canoe & Kayaks, Cagliari, Sadinia, IT

OCEANBUILT: Kona, Konastorm
oceanbuilt dot com

OPIUM X-Bow
caiaquesopium dot com.br

Point 65: XP21, Bourbon Orca (out of production)
surfski.info search > point-65-bourbon-orca-design-notes.html
youtube > search TcGYdYZVrIg + YFZKwiWiRHM

SIPRE: Sea Vortex, Ackua Fun, Ackua Veloce
kayaksipre dot com

REVO, revokayaks dot dom, Greg de Beyer
Durban, South Africa

new boat appears in durban - by: craigDBN

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Race 1 of the winter series happened in Durban this morning. Light offshores and small surf meant a fast 12km pace. And there was a new looking boat on water clearly enjoying the conditions - labelled Rezo. Did a little inspection when back on the beach....the boat certainly looked unique. The nose was reverse bow, with less volume than any boat I've ever seen. It was extremely skinny forward of the cockpit. The seat is apparently adjustable, allowing for varying height settings - didn't have time to figure out how this worked properly because the boat was flipped over to reveal some very squared off rails on the hull. The boat-user for the day was a tall, elite paddler who spoke of how easily the boat jumped onto a plane, and how energy-efficient it was when planing. Interesting times......seems like a lot of innovation out there at the moment.

Epic V8 for sale - by: kwolfe

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Well last year I looked to trade for a V10 sport but I think this time I'll just try a straight sale. I have a first gen V8. Boat is is perfectly good shape. Comes with a kickup rudder as well as the 4" weedless.

Not a thing wrong with the boat. I would simply like to move into something a little faster and more challenging like a V10S or V10 (although I'm not tied to Epic). Looking to get $1600. For those of you around me (live in south central PA), I have friends who live in DC and Phili who I visit pretty often so I could bring it out on a trip. I'm also not far from Baltimore.

Totally open to trades in case anyone wants a more stable ski. Thanks!

Should the boat sit flat throughout the stroke or rotate/roll side to side - by: 10154656777995820@facebook

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I'm paddling a multisport boat with a wing paddle but guessing it would be the same concept in a surfski. Will it be more/less efficient to have the kayak rotating or rolling from side to side with the paddle stroke i.e. left side rotates down slightly when the left hand stroke is being made.

Surf skis of the future? - by: Aurelius

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I just purchased what may very well be my last surf ski. I say "last" not because I plan to stop paddling in the foreseeable future, but because given the level of refinement that has already been achieved in surf ski design, it's hard to imagine how they're going to make them even better in the future than what's currently available.

Where would the improvements come from? I suppose new materials may be discovered to make them lighter, but I'm not sure I want a ski that weighs less than the 26 lb. SEL I already have. All that would do is to make it more susceptible to wind gusts and reduce its stability on the water. Unlike leading edge bicycle design, where reducing weight has had only positive results and no negative ones, when it comes to surf skis, lighter wouldn't necessarily be better.

What about improvements in hull design? I remember reading about a lawsuit several years ago in which one ski manufacturer accused another of having copied their hull design. The plaintiff lost the case because the other manufacturer was able to prove that that since the "formula" for designing an ideal hull shape is so well understood, and because designers are using the same computer simulation software, entering the same variables (eg. weight and physical proportions of the paddler) is all but guaranteed to produce identical results. If that's the case, then all we can really expect to see in future are small design tweaks in hull design, but no really significant improvements.

Having said that, I can imagine some radical innovations that would make it financially feasible to produce a custom design for each paddler, much like a tailor made suit. You could in theory design one for a particular paddler's weight, physical proportions, style of paddling, and the environment in which he plans to paddle. But this is just a bare possibility, not something likely to become reality.

Thoughts?

Shoulders - by: moosterbounce

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Hi folks.

Long time lurker, 1st time poster (I think :) ).

I'm wondering if anyone here has returned from a pretty serious shoulder injury and the steps they went through to get back into the swing of things?

My tale is long - I had an elite PRS that I'd never fallen out of. It was a fun, but after finding myself single, I figured I needed to look at a lighter boat that I could easily get on and off the car. I had been pining for a nice boat anyway so it was a convenient excuse!! I picked up a 2nd gen V10 Sport red nose and immediately set about paddling. Again, stability was good, and I only tipped in once - strangely I thought my boat wake surfing ability had developed the night my new ski arrived, though apparently it hadn't. Ah well...summer in Australia needs the occasional tip in :)

Anyway...I had been steadily improving - I've never been fast but I had enjoyed up to 30km paddles in the river (no ocean) so was aiming for more of these. After having the v10s for about 4 months over spring and very early summer, I had an unfortunate meeting with a bike path at speed...the result of which was a broken shoulder...lots of pieces...detached bicep tendon...12 screws, some wire, and a plate my nephew described as "bigger than an iPhone".

3 months with my shoulder immobilised and I'm coming up to 2 years of rehab this Christmas. Initially I was advised I probably wouldn't be able to lift my arm above shoulder height, but I've been working pretty hard with weekly physio and I'm up to about 150 degrees (135 to the side) and I have quite a lot of strength back. I've moved on from 3 arm-curls using just my arm before being exhausted to an easy 10x3 with 8kg. I'm still seeing the physio as strength is still improving, as is range though those improvements are lessening. I had no damage to any of the rotator cuff stuff, but after 3 months immobilised (and it was another 3 before I returned to work full time) my muscle wastage was massive. You could see ribs on one side of my back and my arm was skin and bone (and fat and metal)!!

I've been back paddling for a few months in the v10s but this is where my issues lie. I still feel new in the epic, but am not able to lift the PRS onto the car with my dodgy arm as my range and strength just isn't that good. I tend to do about 5km but have managed an easy 10km - paddling is either easy or almost impossible depending on whether the physio has changed my rehab exercises. Generally, even if it feels impossible, the least I do is 5km. Because of these program changes though, I'm not able to get on the water consistently.

I'm paranoid about my stability in my boat which probably makes me more wobbly, and I only paddle when I will avoid boat traffic on my stretch of river. I don't have a good brace and tend to take a 10 second break about every 800m as I don't yet have muscle endurance in my arm. I am fatter than usual and my paddling form isn't great as I tend to drop my arm over time though I am conscious of that so rest and tend to paddle slower but concentrate on my stroke.

I sound like a bit of a mess but I'm all good really and back on the bike of course (though not the TT bike that witnessed my fall).

So...here's a bunch of questions for everyone...
Any tips on regaining confidence? Is it simply a matter of doing more of what I have been doing? We are coming into summer so I'll have more opportunity to get on the water and a swim may not be as scary (I've not yet tried, but I'm sure I can do sidestroke towing my ski to shore as I won't be able to get back on in deep water).
Any tips on exercises I can do at home that may help endurance in a "paddle-centric" way?
Am I doing the right thing trying to keep a slower stroke and keep an eye on form? My first paddle was 500m and I physically couldn't do more so I've come a long way with it.
And here's a big question...should I persevere with the v10s or look at selling and getting something like the v8 pro? Should I look at a different boat and keep the v10s for next year? I reckon about the 12-14kg mark is my max

That should just about cover it. Looking forward to any advice :)

NELO 560M Review - by: photofr

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The new NELO SURFSKIS have made their way to Brittany, France. With this comes the brand new NELO testing facility: it’s very small, but easily accessible for about 1/3 of the entire French population. The small testing facility is conveniently located on the water’s edge of a protected sea, with easy access to the ocean less than 1km on a surfski.

Currently in stock for testing: the NELO 520 and the NELO 560M.
The NELO 560L is on its way!

The 520 is super cool, and very versatile (I’ll spend more time on it during the next couple of weeks and try to provide some real life feedback) but this review is about the NELO 560M.

NUMBERS
560 represents its length: 560cm, 5.6 meters, or 18’4 feet.
M Represents a ski designed for Medium to Small paddlers (roughly 77 kilos or less).
(For reference: I still haven’t measured the width, but it’s supposed to be 45cm.)

LOOKS & FEEL
First thing out of the box, you’ll notice a very glossy and shiny ski. Its near-perfect finish will still remind you that this was hand-made, with real humans behind it. Overall, the ski is super clean, so don’t expect too many blemishes because it’s super sharp looking.

The curves are beautiful: essentially, a needle nose ski with a “fat” behind for added stability exactly where you’d need it (behind you).

RIGGING
There’s no denying it: you will be very impressed. I know I was blown away by what I saw. First, there’s the carbon foot plate and pedals (they are very different from anything out there). Adjusting the foot plate length is super easy and very secure once in place. Speaking of adjustments: I have “the world’s shortest legs” and I like to have my knees a little higher than most people. Naturally, the first thing I did was to check if this was going to “work” for me. So, shorter paddlers: finally a ski that will fit you, with plenty of room for the long-legged-counterpart.

Next, you’ll stumble on the foot strap: this one is padded, but rigid. The additional power you’ll get from it may just blow you away. Its adjustment is a little finicky but actually quite simple, with multiple pre-sets.

Took me 15 minutes to unpack the entire ski, rig it, and paddle away. Takes about 20 seconds to change the foot plate length. Too cool.

BUCKET
There’s something missing in the bucket: the hump is nearly all-gone. How does this affect drainage? I don’t know, but I can tell you this: I have swamped my ski trying to draft a boat and it emptied itself in record time. We may very well see copies of the disappearing hump quite soon, because it may not be needed as much as we “thought”.

SEATING AREA
It’s higher than what you are used to if you have used a ski in the last 7 or 8 years, but that’s a good thing. After all, think about it: when we want to seat down at the beach, we try to find a rock, a stump, a step… something to ultimately place our butts higher than our heels. It sounds simple, but try this: seat down on the floor (butt and heels at the same level) and stay there for 2 hours. Now try the same thing, but instead of seating on the floor, try seating on a small step, or even a small phone book. Feels better, doesn’t it?

Well, essentially, the seating area will feel way more natural, right off the bat. More comfort equals more power, so I am all for it and wouldn’t have it any other way.

The bucket is an ergo bucket that isn’t as deep as many other skis. This is one of the first skis where I won’t need any padding for hips, but because it’s ergo, my wife will also be able to paddle it.

Is the bucket the most comfortable bucket ever? I don’t know, and I seriously doubt it. Everyone is made differently, so you’ll have to see for yourselves. For me, it feels natural, and very comfortable (I have narrow hip bones). For my wife, she loves it (and needless to say: she wished she had narrower hip bones). 

DRAINAGE
The NELO drainage is highly efficient: see above as it drains faster than ever. The best part: its ease of operation, where finally you are able to concentrate on your paddling, while using your feet to naturally open and close the latch. It’s very intuitive, and very well placed.

THE CATCH AREA
Being a “needle nose” ski, you’ll find the paddle entry point to be very narrow. It’s pure physics: this will make for a more efficient paddle stroke. There’s one little drawback that I noticed after the first 20k: the outside of the pedals stick out a little… and I have hit it with my paddle a few times, but that’s an easy fix.

For me, there’s nothing worse than a wide catch area – coming from someone with a narrow frame. This feels super nice, comparable to the Spark, but with more comfort and less “boat”.

STABILITY
The seating area of the 560M feels higher than the V10L, and much higher than the Spark. Stability, however, feels way better than the Spark and better than the V10L. I feel a lot of additional stability due to how snug the boat feels (you are part of the ski for a change), and the wider area behind the seat is just added bonus for an Elite ski. Primary stability is okay, but secondary stability is excellent. See, I did it: I spoke about stability without revealing any trade secrets regarding the hull .

SMALLER DETAILS
There are couple of things that also impressed me:
There are three leash plugs: one under the seat designed to be used as a leash attachment point, and two more in front of the footwell. The two points up front can be used to secure gear, or as a towing point if need be. It’s no big deal, but I really like that.

The plastic rudder cover is too simple: no tools required to open it, so a big bonus there. I recommend taping your Allen key in there, with surf wax or similar.

The stiff foot strap makes for a great handle and secures the boat on your shoulder when the wind is high.

SIDEWIND
This is the lowest profile ski I have been on in a long time. The closest thing may have been the Chalup Ski back in 1988. Having said that, smaller paddler (heck, ALL paddlers) will find that paddling this ski in side wind may be easier than with any other skis, mostly because the bow doesn’t get blown away like a butterfly in the wind.

WET OR DRY RIDE?
It’s a wet ride, where you are part of the ocean. The drainage is lighting fast, but you will get wet. Sidewalls are not too tall (as I feel they should be) because truth be told: you are going to get wet any way. Remounting is therefore easier, but it's still a wet ride. The deflector is a huge bonus, and works wonders. Mine came with it, and I believe that’s standard on all NELO Surfskis.

UPWIND
I have been paddling in the same spot for about 2 years and I just blew my personal “best” out of the water on an upwind section I have done 100’s of times. Average speed was high (for me) and I was still getting used to the ski. Upwind speed is good, but the feeling was great; I seriously had fun going up wind up swell.

DOWNWIND
As mentioned above, it’s a bit of a wet ride, but one that I thoroughly enjoyed. Conditions were chaotic, with confused seas, but I was able to use my body (much) more than ever before. It’s another dimension, literally.

Most of this comes from the shorter ski, shorter than it’s been for the past decade, but about the same as back when I had tons of fun in the ocean. Essentially, the ski is super maneuverable, catches runs very easily, and is more responsive than anything I have been on. I am seemingly able to paddle less, where I am finally able to use my body weight to keep that nose in the “hole”. Apparently, the laziness in me is coming out, and that’s cool as heck.

ACCELERATION
Faster – way faster… hands down.

WEIGHT AND STIFFNESS
The skis is about the same weight as the V10 GT, but not as stiff. Don’t get me wrong, it’s solid, and quite stiff with zero soft spots to notice, but not quite the brutal stiffness of prepreg. To be fair, it’s also more “absorbing”, especially when it comes to the imperfections encountered at sea. It’s a more comfortable ride that doesn’t seem to slow performance, but that’s just how I feel having paddled both.

The weight of my skis (carbon sandwich construction) is 9.8 kilos, all rigged, including rudder and rear bungie. Yes, I can carry it under my arm all day.

MADE IN EUROPE
Having a ski made in Europe feels good (since I now live in Europe and all) but there are other advantages. Shipping takes about 7 days to reach European countries, and a custom ski can be ordered with approximately 6-week of a waiting period (not 4 months like numerous other companies outsourcing to China).

I don’t know, call me stupid, but this is 2016: I would proudly (and will) place a flag from Portugal on my ski, but I kind of find it difficult to put a Chinese flag on one of my Stand Up Paddle boards made in China. Call me sentimental, but I will also have an Hawaiian flag on my ski 

Plus, it’s not just made in Europe, or just made in Portugal; it’s made from one of the biggest composite provider in the World, and trusted by more Olympians than any other brands out there. So yeah: I am proud that it’s made near home.

PRICES
Prices are always a factor, granted, but this should put a smile on people’s faces. A light surfski is now affordable!

Two types of constructions are available.
TYPE 4 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Kevlar/Epoxy
Approx. 11 kilos
Approx. 2450 euros

TYPE 7 CONSTRUCTION
Carbon/Epoxy
Approx. 9.5 kilos
Approx. 3850 euros

For reference, I just bought a Stand Up Paddle board, Carbon/Epoxy construction, 14 feet in length, without a rudder, for 3800 euros, and it still weighs 11.5 kilos, and it wasn’t made in Europe.

PERKS OF A SHORTER SKI
What can you too expect from a shorter ski?

For starter, it’s easier to handle on land, where you are most likely to damage your boat. Inevitably, your ski may last longer from less accidental damage on land.

It’s shorter, so there’s less flex on the water, and on the roof of your car; that’s just pure physics.

More reactive to body shifts, and more maneuverable downwind should yield more fun, better average speed, and less paddling fatigue. Keeping the bow into the “hole” will be faster from a more responsive ski, and will allow you to “lock in that wave” longer than ever. Look it up: skis in the 18-19 foot range have always been very fast, see Molokai Channel crossing history.

If you can fit your car in a garage, you should no longer have any problem storing your ski right at home.

FASTER ACCELERATIONS
Shorter waves heaven: the 560M does really well in open ocean swells, but for the majority of people on surfskis, downwind in smaller conditions or in a bay will have you smiling again, and downwind paddling in the Mediterranean Sea will have you “flying”.

CHOICE OF COLORS
You can have a white ski… if that’s what you still want, but you can also choose from a huge variety of colors available online.

CUSTOM SKIS
Custom skis come with your custom colors. Turnaround times take about 6 weeks.

SHIPPING
There are 2 ways to get your new skis to you.
1. You can place your order with one of the reps in France, and pick it up from them (no extra charge).
2. You can place your order with one of the reps, and have it delivered to your house (for about 100 euros more).


IN A NUTSHELL
The new 560M is a shorter surfski that’s surprisingly more responsive than other skis people are used to. It excels for shorter and super light paddlers (though I am told the standard 560 is well-geared towards bigger paddlers like Oscar). When it comes to flat water paddling, the 560M doesn’t disappoint.

When you first paddle the ski, you are likely to notice:
Its needle-nose look, and tight paddle catch area.
Wide area located seemingly behind you.
Higher seating position; comfortable.
Very secure foot strap system.
Good stability for an Elite ski.
Amazing downwind control.
You will be “one” with the water, literally.
My favorite: the ability to once again affect your ski in the surf, even if you weight “nothing”.










QUESTIONS, TESTING OR ORDERING IN FRANCE
Contact: Ludovic BACQUET
NELO Testing Center – FRANCE (West Coast)
E: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
I: www.nelokayaks.com
T: 06.24.74.53.70
International Calls: 011 [33] 624-745-370

manus tenaci - plasty (adding hand grips) - by: Simon Haywood

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manus tenaci - plasty

In response to a request (SkiTutukaka – for JP),

This is how I’ve fitted hand grips to three of my skis...A Huki S1R and 2 x SR (series2)

Maybe it might help or inspire someone else…

NB: This will probably affect my warranty on my ski – but I’d rather have better & easier handling of my ski.

Disclosure: I’m a ‘C’ grade paddler (and not a good one at that!), I have no formal qualifications in boat building – But, I do have close access to one for advice & help...and nearly 40 years experience mucking around with boats.

Like any operation there are several ways of performing it - this is just one...

Start with a piece of timber – I used 140mm x 30mm x 90mm
Shape with a slight taper so it will release.
Round edges (uniform Radius)




Coat timber with flow coat (also known as gelcoat with styrene)

Once dried - sand and polish and then coat with release wax

I use a gelcoat then tissue chop strand 2-3 x layers 2oz carbon matt and a layer of ½ oz chop strand for grip (exterior) – I use west system 105 epoxy.

I make two of these per ski




Find the balance point of the ski – mark out from your hand grip the shape



Fit and adjust hand grip to suit hole – I use a piece of divinycell to space out (adjust depth). Mix up some glue and set hand piece into position – use something to keep open the hand grip’s shape.
Using a dremel tool (very small grinder) reduce edges around the carbon pocket to form a tapered channel. I use several strands of carbon weave and spread it around and around the hand grip.




Once dried cut excess material and round off the edges of the hand grip and round off the edges.




Fair, Prime & Paint (2 pack) colour matched to ski (hint – it’s better to paint the inside of the hand grip prior to fitting to the ski – too hard to get the spray gun in! Yes, I learnt the hard way)




Finished product

Need better drainage on your ski: www.surfski.info/forum/15-tips/18192-ven...y-bailer-plasty.html

Can Nelo Surf ? - by: photofr

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It's been about 6 months... and people are still asking me:
"Can Nelo surfskis SURF?"

I mean, it's a good question: Nelo's concept seems to be aiming at a reduced volume bow. The theory is that the paddler is not tossed around as much with side wind. The narrow catch makes paddling a little more pleasant too... but can it surf?!?

Well, the short answer is: absolutely!
Don't just take my words for it: here's Nelo enjoy a totally mellow day before the race.

THE SETUP



WITH 100 KILOS



FUN PHOTOSHOOT


I'd say surfing is in the book!

Raw Beginner Story - by: Sinkme

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Why I did what I did is a longer story, full of personal limitations and misconceptions, so I’ll just talk about what I did and the results.
Starting Status:
Personal Stats: 58 yrs, 6’1”, 215 lbs (down from 230, 6 months earlier)
Kayaking Experience: 3 times, but 20 min arm endurance exercises in gym for a year.
Gear: 12 ft Walker Bay Tandem Inflatable, with fwd seat reversed for leg drive.
Garmin watch with speed, Max HR% tracking and display.
Location/Conditions: Seattle. Flat water in Lake Washington and it’s ship canal.
Begin:
Go out twice a week for an hour on the water with the goal of getting the muscles and tendons in shape without injury. Search the web regularly and read as much as possible. Best advice: train at 50 to 70% MHR. Worst advice: hyper extend shoulder at the catch for more power (one month down time for injury). Best video: Paddling with Zsolt. An older V8 was occasionally available for rental. No stability issues. An old V10S was also available. A good way to play “Marine Biologist” (impossible for me). My inflatable is a barge, so no stability training there.
I talked to the local surf skiers at the Cross Sound Race. Advice: get a wing paddle, now. Don’t go cheap. Feather it, now. Try as may skis as possible. Get a lesson. The SWIFT gang meets Wed night at Sand Point at 6:00. There is a web board for local discussion and coordination. I start stalking them.
Before the paddle twist was sorted out, my form was wildly random. Going straight was a constant problem. Most web advice on twist is justification, not engineering, just like listening to snow ski instructors (I once raced at the national level). You have to have a stable stroke angle first, then find the feather angle that works.
Blisters were a problem. In hindsight, carry a glove that stops blisters (some make blisters) and put it on when it starts to hurt, but before it blisters. Calluses are your friends.
Speed would jump about: 3.0 mph, then 3.4 as I got in a lucky good stroke or two. I could not figure out what I was doing different stroke to stroke.
Six months pass:
Weight 200 lbs. My average speed for an hour is up from a jumpy 3.0 mph to a more stable 3.8 mph. Form still feels a bit random. Went to first demo day at Deep Cove in Vancouver. The new V8 is no different for me than the old. Speed about 1.0 mph faster than the inflatable. The Big Ease is a little faster than the V8 with the same stability, but a tight fit in the hips. The new V10S is stable at rest, but I’m into the secondary stability every third stroke. I can feel that the speed wall is further out than for the Big Ease. Fit is fine (36” waist).
Back home I did stability training with those big balls, 3 times a week, 10 minutes at a time, feet eventually on a chair level with the ball. A month later at the next demo day I’m never into the secondary stability in the new V10S . It worked for me. Form still feels a bit random though.
I went to a two day forward stroke clinic. I do not look like Zsolt; ego crushed. Catch, leg drive, and arms all changed. It took three months to put all the pieces of my stroke back together again.
One year from start:
The locals don’t even notice me stalking them anymore. Training is now three times a week. My hour speed is at 4.3 mph in the inflatable. Form feels stable. I can now LOAD my strokes. My V10S Ultra should show up in a week or two. My Goal for the next 6 months in the V10S is an hour average speed of 6.0 mph and a solid remount.
After that: waves and a bit of racing
A big thanks to all the beginners on this site who talked about their experiences/questions and everyone who commented and included their weight and background.

Fenn Tarpon spec ski - by: dror

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Hi,
I'm trying to find information on the Fenn Tarpon and couldn't find a single review. Also the Fenn web site is down so not much info out there...
I'm looking for a spec ski mainly for getting in and out of the waves for fun. I have another ocean ski v10.
Any comments are very welcome.
Cheers!
Geva

Attaching a skeg/sword/tracking fin on a surfski? - by: Uffilation

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"Ability before stability" ..
means start from a start beginner surfski and work yourself up through the models when you improve and use seat pads to make yor comfy craft more unstable to train the upgrade to the next less stable model.

So I was thinking of making my own weed fin (those small ones in front of the rudder),
but then wondered,
why not - for the fun of trying random stuff - place a tracking fin (like a sword for stability) under the hull (under/behind the seat) for making a tippy ski more stable, eg increasing the force needed for rolling.

This would be the other way round compared to adding sead pads to a stable model in order to gain instability for training, as here one would go for the instable model ealier but then reduce the length of that "sword/skeg" when one improves, until in the end, one would remove it completely or put it on again in conditions when one requires extra stability.

For playing/testing this out, one could use the industrial type strong velcros of tesa and attach the fin(s) to the hull. Besides easy to cut-out DIY shapes for testing, alternatively many clip-on tracking fins are around for SUPs, surfboards (like those rubber fins) or inflatable paddle boats.

... or use two fins parallel off center towards the sides like twin keels or bilge fins (not to such an extreme extreme to the outside tho and short, like those short" tracking fins", see google) ... or ... or ...

I wonder if that is a completely stupid idea? Has surely been tried out several times over the decades I'd guess and there'd be reasons why one does not see surfkis with skegs/swords/tracking fins. Forces on the hull in ocean conditions might be a concern, but making a tippy ski more stable for flat water fitness racing to skip the model upgrade journey until stable? Wondering.

Kayak Ergometer - by: kwolfe

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So I have been seriously consider getting a kayak erg for this winter. When the weather gets really cold or the water freezes I would like to continue training to make sure that everything is tip top for the spring.

I do lift and run at work during lunch. I have a Concept II model C in my basement that I enjoy a lot but would like be able to mimic the kayak stroke. This leads me to many different options, some of which are pretty darn expensive.

Vasa Trainer:
- can be used for kayak, SUP and outrigger training
- $2200 - $2500 (more if you get the monitor) plus $100 delivery
- side note, they should really get someone in the video who actually paddles :laugh:

Kayakpro Speedstroke:
- $2500 plus $110 delivery
- can only do kayak stroke

K1 trainer:
- found on ebay new for $1750 delivered
- looks to be the same design as the speedstroke

Stroke2max:
- looks like $1950 delivered
- looks the same as the K1 and Speedstroke

Paddleone:
- uses friction for resistance
- may be able to be converted for OC1 and SUP
- $1200 not delivered

So what are everyone's thoughts? I really would prefer not to break the bank, however I don't want to buy something that would ultimately been disappointing and really hard to resell. BTW, if there is anyone out there that is looking to sell their erg, let me know!
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